Hopenschlafenlager....er. Hm.

Let's address the elephant in the room. How on earth is that pronounced?!?!

'Hohenleipisch' is not the easiest name to say. Kerstin, my host, had someone staying with her who was never able to master the name of the village and always said something different. Her favorite version was "Hopen-schlaf-en-lager. I imagine my own attempt at pronunciation was pretty horrific, too.

**

My time in Germany is sadly coming to a close. I have been here two weeks exploring East Germany and residing with a woman brought up to speak German and Russian in a small village that was once familiar with large Russian military bases. Sends the history senses tingling!

I am currently in a small village called Hohenliepisch, located in Brandenburg, Germany - approximately 2,500 residents.  I am staying with a woman name Kerstin, her husband and their 4 cats. Kerstin and I began chatting thanks to HelpX - an online meeting place for people with farms, hostels, hotels, large homes they need help with, ranches, boats, backpackers havens (and more!). You should check out the website here. 

 Helpers (or HelpXers) agree to help the host with work they have in exchange for a place to sleep, for food, etc. Hands down the best way to meet people and get "stuck in" a new place.  Kerstin is my 4th host on this trip and I truly can't wait to get back to Hohenleipisch some time in the future - there is always more to explore!

From the left: Carsten, Jose, and Kerstin 

When I arrived at the small train platform in the village Kerstin was there to meet me with another HelpXer; Jose from Spain.  Jose speaks English as well and is spending one year in Germany with the sole purpose of learning German (he had already been in Germany 6 months when I met him).  The best part about HelpX isn't the hosts' location or getting by cheaply but the other travelers you meet. I've been fortunate enough to meet and make some good friends this way and am excited to meet another girl from Hong Kong, arriving in Hohenleipisch after me.

EXPLORE here!

Kerstin's official website.  She has a lovely home with a large holiday apartment that can sleep up to 6 people. This time of year it is rented by a group of boys from Berlin who are here to learn a trade but in the summer and spring months it is taken up by tourists and families.  

So, what I have I learned in Germany about he local culture.... (beyond how much I enjoy the food, that is)? Well, of course most are familiar with Germans being hard-working (and punctual) and they care very much about the inside and the outside of the house. In this house, we are ruled by 4 four-pawed critters who are very intent on our whereabouts! In addition to regular upkeep of the holiday apartment, Human and I are very fond of our "tasks" playing with, feeding, entertaining, and being an occasional scratching post for the 2 kittens and 2 older cats! That's that sorted, then.

These little 5 month old kittens are Bonnie and Clyde. Bonnie is all white an Clyde is black with white paws, nose and under belly.  Don't be fooled by Bonnie's name, though, they are litter brothers! They live up to their names.

This is Morchen (sounds more like Mooshen to us Americans - I have to say that the German 'r' is the hardest sound my mouth has ever tried to tackle! She is 13 and has a sister, Moritz (named after Moritzburg Castle). They are nearly identical but Moritz has a white patch on her chest. 

Life in Hohenleipisch as an honorary Petzold is....

 - having a schedule each day. Very organized, Germans.

 - eating more than necessary and needed but always insisted upon (and tasty)

 - playing with kittens and subjecting hands and fingers to being bled and bit (no problem here)

 - full of laughs and Kerstin translating TV for us when needed

 - comfortable and warm, even though the weather has shown us only 2 (very cold) sunny days

 - full of learning German words, teaching Carsten English words, and having discussions on the differences between Germans, Americans, and Chinese cultures.
- attempting to pronounce German and allowing Kerstin and Carsten to laugh at the sounds that emerge. 

Blah Blah... that's great and I'm so happy we were a help to Kerstin. What Kerstin did for me (and I imagine for Human, as well) can not be so easily summed up. I was able to see Dresden and the scorches of WWII, Potsdam and so many beautiful places that much of recent history overlooks due to our location on a map. I'll post another blog soon going into all the awesome things and places we saw so keep an eye out! For now, let's focus on food and cats.

An example of dinner - bread (on the table for every meal), cheese, sausages, butter, and tomatoes, cucumbers and beer. Often there is tea/coffee. The full day of meals: breakfast, coffee break (with cake or cookies), lunch, coffee break (more cake), dinner. Whew! I have gained a least 1 or 2 kilos....and I don't think it's from the beer!

The driveway and yard. There are 3 buildings - the house (behind me), the stable to the left, and the barn in front (now with garage).  Kerstin hopes to renovate the rest of the barn into an artist loft or studio.

The backyard. taken this morning, which was a very cold and frosty morning. With the sun shining it began to flurry beautiful, perfectly formed snowflakes! It was Hui Man's first time seeing snow EVER! Clyde was frolicking in the cold and nearly got stuck up a tree. Silly kitten.

Obviously there's beer.

And now, the Potsdam apples...

Human with Morchen. She has an apple, too, don't worry.

Human took this photo of Carsten and I jogging in the forest around the village.  She was jogging herself while she took the photo. I like this, also, because it proves that even though I indulged quite a bit I also ran!!! (you know, once)

Cold weather be damned - grilling (or, BBQing) fresh pork chops outside. We picked the chops up that morning at a local baker (who also butchered a pig and made sausage and these cuts), salted, peppered, and marinated in beer for a couple hours before cooking over an outdoor flame :D

I could spend all day playing with these little ones! I miss them already! 

Bike Amsterdam - the Dutch Hipster

Amsterdam is known for its canals, "coffee" shops, museums for every taste, global diversity (only about half the people in Amsterdam are Dutch), English language proficiency, and bikes. In fact for those who ride, it's an obsession. And they are totally the hipsters that rule the roost here.

The city's set-up is at once simple and confusing - when you look from a birds eye there are some neighborhoods on a traditional grid and then the downtown and canal area which is more like a belt - the streets and canals arch around the other (like a rainbow). I think it would be quite easy to navigate but the street names (for me) are not easily recognizable! I became quite adept at navigating the main canals but I have no idea what they were called. Dutch is not forgiving to my American tongue.

---

I came to Amsterdam from Newcastle via ferry.  First off it was amazing to have my own cabin after all the shared dorms in hostels!! I love being on boats and the ferry was small enough to feel the swells but not too small to be overwhelmed in the North Sea (a notoriously cold and bitchy sea, so my Navy friends say).  They had a small cinema so I also got to see Elysium (in my opinion, quite good). The ferry, run by DFDS Seaways, had some very fancy restaurants, a couple musicians, and of course bars and stores.  It was very enjoyable .... except that I was hungry.

Here's some fun stuff to know for when you travel anywhere in Europe (and it's quite new so pay attention, travelers)!!..... The ship accepted both GBP and the Euro but they ONLY accept chip cards. The credit cards have a chip on them; which looks like the chip on your phone's memory card.  Each person has a PIN for their card and they are not swiped at all. While most places in the UK can accept both (but NOT Royal Mail or Post as I discovered). this ferry could not.  I did not foresee this and spent my GBP down to the last 2 pence...and had no Euros :( There was no cash point but the woman said I can give you cash from your chip card....AHHH! Thankfully I came stocked with Clif Bars and some protein bars. While not satisfying it held me over to Amsterdam.

 Model of the ferry (I was way down on deck 2)

Our boat, the KING. She was made in Copenhagen.

My humble abode for the night. It was quite comfortable!

I love to be on the water (especially in the Caribbean during a thunder storm) and the best thing about it, besides being rocked to sleep, is this....

 In progression.... always when I am sleeping on a boat I try to get up to see the sun rise! The North Sea was calm for our passing and not as cold as I thought it would be - all wonderful.

We docked in a port town called Ijumuiden and there was a bus to take us to town.  I only stayed in Amsterdam for one night but the ferry docked at 9am so I did get to take advantage of two full days.  As the previous pictures suggest, the first day was gorgeous and sunny (for part of the day) - which is rare in a place where it rains 300 days a year (sound familiar, Pacific Northwesters?).

As always the first stop is the hostel to drop the backpack! This one was pretty cool looking...

If you can manage to see, my room was all the way on the top floor (no elevator...hm) with the balcony (left side in this photo). It overlooked the Vondelpark. The largest (47 hectares) and most famous (live music, shows and popular outdoor spot in summer that attracts about 10 million a year) park in Amsterdam.

Vondelpark. I imagine its more becoming in the summer. This was the warmer, sunnier day by the way (cough cough).

FUNNY FACT - the directions to this hostel (stayokay) said to "turn left at the Marriott". Hmmm...

Day 1. November 13 - Anne Frank House, long walk around the canals, getting high walking by cafes, eating a large, deserved, and delicious meal, cheese, flowers, and of course...browsing shops!

About 15 minutes from the hostel, the Anne Frank House is located off Prinsengracht, which is the second canal street. The house is easy to find because it's on the corner next to the Western Church or Westerkerk.  

*history*

The Anne Frank House is quiet and sad but also remarkable. That is especially clear when you think of Otto Frank, Anne and Margot's father, who had to return to the house (or the secret annex) and took the time and energy to read and assemble Anne's diary (he even made it into a stage play but could never go to see it performed - having to see people portray himself and his deceased family).  Otto was the only Frank to survive with Anne having died only days before Liberation. 

**

The museum is set up to be bare, quiet, and asks for no photography as many visitors have emotional ties to the subject.  It is set-up with photos, models of the office and warehouse, and with interviews of  those who knew the family. The best feature, though, is at the end of the museum. I think it's a great feature because it engages younger people who are farther from WWII and possibly are not as affected by it. It also relates Anne Frank's story to current society; which is how education of history SHOULD be.

At the end of the exhibit there is an interactive TV area.  In the middle there are lot of little columns (about 1.5 meters) with a red "no" and a green "yes" button.  The TV's show clips of religious, race, gender interviews and asks a corresponding question which you answer on your column.  There were 2 school groups here at the time and it was really interesting to see the buttons they pushed....and how some of them reacted when their friend chose the opposite. Fascinating. More info on that here: Free2Choose 

This is Westerkerk. It is the biggest church in Amsterdam and is, of course, Protestant.  The tower, Westertoren, is 275 feet high and is considered to be the symbol of Amsterdam to many. 

I'll be honest....I can't believe I put off eating for so long but I am happy I did! Right across the canal and down to the next bridge from Westerkerk and the Anne Frank Huis I found a little cafe run by a very nice Indian man who was helpful and handed me an English menu (no, it wasn't a curry place!), called Roem.  Fantastic. I had a very hard time deciding because everything sounded good but I knew I had to have a pancake (not quite a crepe but it's the best comparison I have). I decided on the savory - bacon, mushroom, cheese, and tomato pancake. I went back again the following day for lunch.

If you are ever in Amsterdam and want to try a Dutch pancake (and everyone should) go to Roem.  It's in a touristy place but its small, cozy, very well priced and caters to locals as well as tourists. 

On the same road there are two other places I enjoyed exploring.  The Tulip Museum and The Cheese Museum.  Holland is famous for its tulips and had a festival each year, Tulip Time, held in early May(ish). As for cheese...there's a lot. Some is stinky, some is tasty, some come in big wheels (!).

It smelled quite nice in here, and though I do not posses a green thumb I was tempted to buy lots of bulbs and try.

Being lactose intolerant does not mean I avoid cheese altogether...so the free sample was plenty as well as tasty. They had a nice mild cheese out (no idea what it was) and a very sharp cheddar. YUM!

Sadly for me, the museums in Amsterdam are not free and when traveling for so long (and having spent so much in the UK) were out of my reach. This being said I walked about towards the central station, Dam Square, and in and out of the winding canals to really get a sense of the place.  

Things I noticed and found, and learned:

- Absolutely no photos of the girls in the windows...they get angry (kind of funny for a spectator, but don't do it). The oldest female worker in the Red Light district is 84.

- There's a chance if you walk by the right places at the right time (and I think I did) you may get a bit high during your walk (I had very vivid dreams that night...hmm)

- Shop and restaurateurs will practically proposition you to come inside and shop/eat.

- There are 5 lanes to cross on most streets - regular two-way traffic, one tram (center) lane, and two bike lanes.

- Bikers in Amsterdam rule. And are pretty confident that rules don't apply to them.

- It rains. A lot.

- Pancakes are suitable for every meal

- Crooked houses? Nope, that's intentional.

- Tallest people on average!

- Dutch are the kings and queens of water management and when floods or other such things happen, most leaders call on the Dutch.

- Coolest and also crudest signage. For example:

Signs like this are common in the bigger party areas...."people live here" is a popular add-on.

Why are the houses so narrow and crooked? You may ask. Well, read-on!
- Some people say the houses are so narrow and tall because the Dutch are the tallest people in the world.  - - Some people also say they are the tallest people because their houses are so tall. While they are the tallest people, that's not right,
- The houses are so narrow and high because of the way taxes were calculated; by width of the property. But feel free to build as high as you want! Which leads to houses like this...

The red building on the left...is a house. That's all there is to it! It is the narrowest house in Amsterdam and was built by a rich merchant for his butler because the butler said..."I cannot believe the width of this house, if I had one only the width of this door." He was taken literally.

 - Most houses, even though they are so narrow in front, do widen as they go back.

 - The houses naturally fall to one side or forward because Amsterdam is all marsh, of course, and the foundations shift.  Instead for tearing buildings down and re-building them correctly the Dutch just re-leveled the floors and kept on going.

- More recently the Dutch started building the houses with foundations of tall trees - just like houses near beaches that are raised up on stilts.  So, Amsterdam row houses have tall foundations underneath! 

- Lastly the crookedness. Totally intentional. Why? Well if you think moving is a pain with a regular house and doorway, try it here. Every building has an arm, a beam, off the top with a pulley hook. So next time you see a spoof of someone dropping a piano on a car below...it likely has happened in Amsterdam.

See?! I bet it's fun to watch people move-in and out but horrible to do it. I'd also imagine most places come furnished!

Welcome to the Geordie Shore?

SO! The Geordie Shore. It was explained to me by my roommate (who you'll meet later in this post) to be quite similar to the Jersey Shore (oh how exciting). I guess the locals are referred to as "Geordies". I have resisted the urge to Google it because I just don't care. The weirdest thing, though, is it that three other people have mentioned this show to me in the last week... and it takes place in Newcastle. In fact I went to two of their "hangouts". Weren't my kind of places but to each their own.

On to Newcastle...

The North of England (and all of Scotland, really) is full of fantastic, helpful people.  Note that for future travel - north is good. Arriving in Newcastle early on the 10th I was forcibly reminded that everyone is lazy on Sunday's and finally found a Starbucks that was open and blissfully warm. Northumbria is a breathtaking place but do not ever assume that you'll be warm after summer or before the sun is high in the sky. Burr.

I had an unexpected surprise while sipping my peppermint hot cocoa (my favorite seasonal drink!). There were a large number of men and women in uniform - RAF mostly - in and out and they were talking about lining up here or there.  When I left Starbucks there was a crowd of people around the church of St. Thomas the Martyr; which was at the end of Northumberland Street (where I was sipping my cocoa!). I meandered on over and asked a man what was taking place. November 11 each year Britain has Remembrance Day, to reflect and remember those lost in the World Wars. Official Info here!  While the actual holiday is the 11th, they celebrate on the Sunday closest.

I followed the marching troops around to Old Eldon Square and watched the entire memorial. It was quite wonderful and moving.  So, despite my chilly, quiet beginning in Newcastle things were looking up.

The guys most people think of when "England" and "uniform" are used together. They led the procession behind two MP's on horseback; the pomp, circumstance, and musical talent of the memorial.

Army, British Armed Forces. You could tell who the newer recruits were because they often had trouble keeping their march in time! That or they were rhythmically challenged.

Church of St. Thomas the Martyr. Located right in the downtown area of Newcastle.

I stayed at Euro hostel, same as I did in Glasgow.  They have a great set-up and if you are ever traveling in Europe I do recommend them. As long as you bear in mind that the dorm options are cheaper...just revert to a college sense of mind. There was one other girl in the room with me, Azita. She and I hit it off quite well and spent the evening in typical Newcastle fashion....drinking and bar hopping.  To be honest that was the most typically "collegiate" party night I have EVER experienced. Not too sure its worth the money to bother again but she and I had such fun that it was entirely worth it....but I still refused to give in to any karaoke urges. The coolest thing about the night beyond making a new friend and enjoying drinks...? Meeting a lot of the Newcastle Falcons (the rugby team while the Newcastle football team is Newcastle United). They look like THIS. Azita and I met some of the first team and the academy players. I've never watched a full game of rugby but it was still cool to meet people (and have a drink with) those who have their own stadium. Seriously.

While this is, by no means, an overly flattering photo it is all I have from our night out as my valuables stayed locked in the hostel. Azita and I.

Since the UK doesn't celebrate Thanksgiving, decorations and music jump immediately from Halloween to Christmas.  If you have seen the movie ELF and you love it (because you can't not) you'll want to make a trip to Newcastle around the holidays someday. If you haven't seen ELF (watch it) you're not going to understand....but I'll try to help you. In the heart of the central area of Newcastle - Eldon Square and Northumberland Street - there is a store called Fenwick. Think Gimbell's, ELF lovers.

The interior is simply a department store but the kids and holiday sections are something to see...but the best part is the exterior.  The first thing I heard (because you hear it before you see it) was uplifting, upbeat, make you want candy canes and snow, music coming from lots of speakers. Then you walk closer. There is a big lego Santa in the corner window...then you keep walking down Northumberland and think "gee, I wonder why all those kids and parents are queued up outside the side of a building..."
... Then you walk by. There are eight large display windows. All with large circular frames around them. This years theme is "Fairy Tale Forest" and they were unveiled on November 9th. The displays include: Hansel and Gretel, Little Red Riding Hood, Sugar Plum Fairy, Jack Frost, Rapunzel, Snow White, and the Old Toymaker (I think its really just Santa in his workshop but I've been told differently). The first window seems to be a little girl reading a book of fairy tales. The music, by the way, plays all day so just stroll by if you need uplifting (but not if you want to pinch your pockets...Christmas has the side affect of spending too much).

Even has its sign out on the side, like Gimbell's! The main shopping area...

Here is a taste...

The first window, a girl on the woods reading a book of fairy tales.

Jack Frost ice skating. I really like the story of Jack Frost but it is sad that all of my photos have reflections on them! :(

My remaining time in Newcastle was spent walking about the small city sight-seeing and making friends wherever I went! Each time I sat down in a cafe for a drink and computer time (the wireless at Euro Hostels is really quite crappy) I found myself being talked to or beginning a conversation (shocking, I know).  The thing I was looking forward to most was Hadrian's Wall....and of course when I got out there on my last morning there was no memory card in my camera :(  So even though I have no pictures to show you, check this out - one day I'll do THIS!  Hadrian's wall, of course, runs east to west across Northumbria and Cumbria, total of about 75 miles, and was built to enforce the borders of the Roman Empire.

In addition to a lot of shopping, Newcastle also boasts a fair amount of theaters. Naturally I gave into my urge to see Thor and I have to say it was entirely worth the 8 GBP!

Here are the rest of the Newcastle pictures:

 Rapunzel...the tower in in the back left but the witch is easily seen

Little Red Riding Hood

Hansel and Gretel

Snow White and the Seven Dwarves

 the Toymaker (or Santa, which I prefer)

Sugar Plum Fairy (I think)

 The center of Newcastle has these great fences - the metal is in the shape of a castle with its turrets!

 The base of the WWI and II memorial where people laid their poppies during the memorial parade

WWI and II Memorial. The figure on horseback is striking down a dragon or monster with his saber

 Newcastle United Stadium

 Central Station. The train stations here are all quite grand - new or old

Down one of Newcastle's many shopping streets and looking into the heart of downtown and its main memorial - a Greek column

People Make Glasgow

"People Make Glasgow" is a common phrase to see here on cabs and adverts. They even have a website (click me!). The people here are very friendly and diverse - so many languages are heard on the street that I don't often understand what anyone is saying....of course its also near impossible to understand a Scotsman speaking English half the time.

I came to Glasgow to attend Glasgow University's post-graduate open house. Lots of smart people with lots of info hanging about in one room with tea and coffee for a couple hours - it was generally a good time.  Best of all was their museum, the Hunterian, exhibit on the Antonine wall which helped to satisfy my love for antiquity. **small history lesson on Antonine and how awesome Romans are following**

Main building at Glasgow University. Unclear what the name is, but Bute Hall, where the post-grad stuff was, was apart of it. There are two courtyards inside and the arches are to die for. Any architect or history/art history enthusiast would agree. 

It's no secret that the weather in Scotland is sub-par. While it was a beautiful, sunny, and warm day when I made out for the university, it turned for the worse shortly after I left.  What I mean by that is sleet. I have no problem handling rain but the temperature outside changed so drastically within minutes that I had cold, stiff fingers and a very wet head! Naturally I ducked and hid inside a coffee shop to plan out the rest of my stay.

Beyond the university my time in Glasgow had two high particularly high points - Auchentoshan and Hootenanny. Sounds like a good time already, yea?!

Auchentoshan

 A Lowland, triple distilled, single malt whiskey located on the outskirts of Glasgow in a place called Clydebank.  I found Auchentoshan based on a recommendation from the coffee-making savoir at the cafe I hid from the weather in - and it was a fantastic recommendation! The tour guide, Flora, was sweet, accommodating and helpful! There were three of us on her tour - myself and a couple originally from Moscow but living in Glasgow for 15 years. We all got on quite well.

The tour itself was simple and what you'd expect - the distillation process from farmer to your glass but Flora was sure to explain that Auchentoshan is a very green company. They manage to recycle almost all the leftovers from the distilling process.

The only distillery in Scotland that triple distills! Their water comes from Loch Katrine in Stirling.

Hootenanny

My other favorite thing about Glasgow was a pub I found around the corner from the hostel.  A place with great character and full of characters, called Hootenanny. I think the name is part of the attraction.  

I had dinner there my first night - its hard to beat a full plate of British pub fare for 5 pounds! The bartender and manager, Colin, was quite accommodating and was happy to tell me about the area and the pub. The second bartender, David, was really great helping me plan my day at Auchentoshan and good for a chat (...I could never sit at a bar and NOT get to know everyone there). He was also the wonderful man who handed me a price list and pointed out that a pint of beer costs MORE than a dram of good single malt whiskey....which is crazy. And amazing. I quickly finished my pint and switched courses. 

They have a live singer/pianist on Fridays and Saturdays and I'm happy I got to see Shonagh performing both days; she does a fantastic 'Sweet Home Alabama'! 

Things to take away from Glasgow

- the University is visually and academically appealing and I really hope to be accepted

- the people are very friendly even if you can't understand a word they're saying

- there is live music everywhere

- the whiskey is cheap

- the weather sucks. drink more whiskey

- after dark it is a pure party town - stay indoors after midnight for you own sanity (when I went to catch my 5am bus to Newcastle the streets were still bursting with scantily clad girls and partying boys...still going out for a bite to eat, being drunk and raucous. Its a whole new world)

Me enjoying Auchentoshan. The top photo is at the first stage - malting. The second photo is the distilling phase. I'm standing at the second filter (trying to break in!).

Really cool building facade in St Enochs square (more of an area, really). It has metal ivy/leaves on the side that are lit and some other fun artsy structures. 

St. Enoch's square was the main area - shopping, lots of musicians on the street, cafes etc. I like the big lighted reindeer.

A small lake in front of Auchentoshan. Except that it isn't...the distillery was bombed in WWII and the lake is actually a crater

TARDIS. I have no idea why it's there. In vain hope I did stand there for a bit crossing my fingers a Doctor would come out. No such luck. Its a bit beat and I'm not sure what the point is, but its neat, 

***

So! Romans are awesome. Really they're the English of ancient history. They pillaged, warred, imposed themselves on other cultures, built up other cultures/places, and left lasting marks wherever they went. To sum up, the Romans showed the English how to do Imperialism.

After Rome had expanded and the time of Caesar and Augustus had passed (note that all succeeding emperors had either Caesar or Augustus in their official name) there were some really crappy men in charge of a lot of people. In the year 96 BCE there began a time of the "5 good Emperors". In fact there are 6 of them but there were 5 successions. 

- Nerva (ruled under 2 years, was the father of the Nerva-Antonine line..which was important because he adopted Trajan by choice and merit, not by blood or for power.

- Trajan (named 'optimus princeps' by the senate and oversaw the largest expansion of territory) 

- Hadrian (Hadrian's Wall and the Pantheon in Rome)

- Antoninus Pius (Antonine Wall). His name, "Pius" was adopted after his succession for a couple reasons - he asked the senate to deify Hadrian and he also saved some senators from the death they had been sentenced to under Hadrian.

- Marcus Aurelius (author of Meditations)

- Lucius Verus (you may remember a small boy in the movie Gladiator...that's him!)

But this is about Antoninus Pius... the 4th 'good emperor' was originally from Gaul and was adopted by Hadrian to be his successor.  The Antonine wall took about 20 years to construct and was further north than Hadrian's wall; it runs across Scotland just north of Edinburgh and Glasgow. It is a bit unclear as to why the wall was built so shortly after the completion of Hadrian's (larger, built across the North of England against the Britons to protect Rome's interests) but was likely in part to secure his tenure (each emperor in Rome has a legacy of monuments/temples/conquests to show his power) as emperor and to help defend against the Caledonians.

The wall is just about all dismantled now but some of the forts are still there or have been memorialized. Sections of wall can be found in museums (like the one at Glasgow Uni) along with the Legions' distance stones (which were carved for the Legion that did the work and the distance they completed). All construction work was completed by Rome's Legions and each stone will show a symbol to identify them.

Antonine's wall is cool, and so is Hadrian's! Go Rome!