Roman, Georgian, and Austen-tacious Bath

Many cities in Britain can claim Roman ruins and history. More cities are home to the popular and regal Georgian style (itself following Palladian and Classical styles). A few cities can even claim to have once been home to Jane Austen; arguably the best and dearly loved English novelist (Austen over Dickens. I am prepared to defend this position).

Yet all of the above can be claimed by one beautiful city in particular: Bath. I came to Bath at the end of the summer in 2015 to visit with some of my most gracious and entertaining friends. I did have to say good-bye to my faithful Ford Fusion rental car but, being the historically Roman city it is, Bath is best explored by foot. Time to slip on those Birkenstocks!

Before digressing into the city itself I cannot stress the importance of having such a lovely, temporary home. While I won't go into much detail, suffice to say that this villa has the ability to calm any stressed soul with its large and private garden, homey and comforting Aga stove (not sure what that is? Check this out AGA), and company willing to pour you one more glass and serve one more bite of food! While I am an avid hostel goer and prefer to be out rather than inside, this setting was an ideal "break" before setting into the last, hectic month of dissertation writing.

French champagne with a side of ranch Doritos. Could there be a better matched pair of hosts and snacks?

Off we go - don't forget comfy shoes, some water, and open eyes to sights that may be familiar from favorite films (or even history lessons). Here are the places I visited and the "must-see" places in Bath:

- Roman Baths

- The Assembly Rooms

- Sally Lunn's house AND bakery

- Royal Crescent

- Bath Abbey 

- Walk around High Street and listen to whichever local musician is there

While these are in no particular order, I'd have to admit that if you visit Bath and fail to see its namesake from the Roman era I don't know what you're thinking! Overlooking the green water into the halls and lounging areas of people long past is therapeutic on its own. These baths are the reason the city is a World Heritage city. The structure dates back to 70 BCE and it is such a humbling and magnificent site. 

 I don't have photos of all the places I've visited because sometimes taking photos can get in the way of experiencing the place and its vibe. The Assembly rooms, for instance, were so vast and open that even if I had wanted to capture it my phone would have done them terrible justice! It was another experience, though, of stepping back into a bygone era. The rooms were used in Georgian times (think Jane Austen novels!) for all social sorts of social gatherings. In fact, while we were there a wedding was being setup for the next day. Bright, open, ornate, and inspiring all the rooms had their own feel to them complete with floors that showcase the click of a heel and chandeliers to match the jewels worn by Georgian ladies.  

.... I am lost in an Austen daydream. Someone pinch me, I do believe I've spotted Mr. Darcey.

I've had some tea and sadly, that wasn't Mr. Darcey. That'a alright, though, because while meandering down streets and browsing in shops I cam across the stunning bridge in the photo above. This is Pulteney Bridge and at first I did not see river Avon which runs under it or the pristine Palladian architecture; that is because on both sides of the bridge you can find shops to distract even a classical architecture lover such as myself!  The pattern the river Avon takes on makes it even more attractive, but you may recognize this bridge if you are a fan of "Les Miserables". Go back and re-watch the 2012 version of the film to the end when the character Javert takes his life .... off Pulteney Bridge (the Avon makes a great stand-in for the Seine).

 I mentioned keeping your eyes peeled for film locations and this beautiful row of Georgian architecture, the Royal Crescent, certainly has had its fair share of the limelight. "Persuasion", the Jane Austen adaptation had scenes here as well as a TV series I enjoyed while living in Portsmouth called "Our Girl" on the BBC.

While I jaunted about on foot through the high street shops and homely lanes, my hosts took turns showing me nearby sites. Unsurprisingly we ventured to magnificent places of architecture (both hosts claiming the profession) and the old and new were all stunning to behold. Like all proper British cities, Bath boasts a Gothic church; this one is an Abbey because it was previously a monastery. The Abbey went through a series of faiths including a Benedictine (Anglo-Saxon) Monastery, a Norman Cathedral, and the Church of England (Anglican).  While I am not a religious person, visiting Abbeys, Cathedrals, and even ruins of such grand buildings are among my favorite pastime while travelling!

Not one to discount newer feats of architecture and engineering, we also spent part of a day driving to Bristol to walk across the Clifton Suspension Bridge. This bridge is certainly more modern than any Abbeys in the area but it is not "new". This bridge was built in 1863 but remains pivotal part of the economy in Bristol. It spans the River Avon, just as the Pulteney Bridge in Bath. It may seem a silly thing to explore but it is highly recommended. There are tours offered, the history is deeply rooted in the local area, and it is an excellent way to break up the usual sights!

If I were to settle in England, Somerset (which is the regional home of Bath) is wonderfully situated between Wiltshire (boasting Chippenham and Lacock), and Bristol county (self-explanatory) which, of course, connects to Wales via bridge. All three counties are bursting with rich history, offer lively High Streets and rolling green vistas while being well connected to both Wales and London. I was lucky enough to join one of my hosts off towards Chippenham to see Lacock Abbey. I knew nothing of this historic place until we arrived but was given one of the top gifts upon arrival: a membership to the National Trust. I told you these friends are the best. He knew it'd be best to leave me be in the surrounding history and I was free to explore for a few hours' time.

 This Abbey-cum-private home boasts another amazing piece of history and innovation which has made it possible for me to share these photos with you. Once home to the Talbots, the most notable person to live there was William Henry Fox Talbot who was the pioneer of photography in England. The tower above features many of his original photos and equipment. The first negative was created here by William Talbot in 1835.

 Keep an eye out for film locations! Wiltshire is a popular destination for directors. Perhaps the cloisters pictured above look familiar to Harry Potter fans? Many scenes were filmed here including classrooms, interior corridors, and villages. For example, the village outside of Lacock Abbey is entirely historic. What I mean is, there are no obvious modern markers (beyond people parking their cars and the road) from the outside. Many period pieces are filmed here but also snippets of Godric's Hollow! Worth a visit but please, please keep in mind that while the National Trust owns much of the area, actual people do live there. Truly.

 The history and modern things that happen all around Bath, Bristol, and Lacock in Wiltshire are truly wonderful but I find the best is simply to walk, look, and enjoy the landscape and beauty of the place. You can absolutely feel the history everywhere you are.

****

After all that walking and taking-in of history, let's head back to Bath and get to the truly important things: food. You absolutely have to stop by Sally Lunn House. There is a rivalry between the "Sally Lunn Bun" and the "Bath Bun". I have to admit that I only stopped in to try a Sally Lunn Bun (similar to the French brioche). There is a small eatery in the Sally Lunn house with a museum (free entry with a munch!) and there is lot of mystery and fun surrounding the origins on Sally Lunn herself as well as the tasty, leavened treat. The Bath bun has dried fruit and sugar crystals which I'll have to try when I go back for another visit.

After you munch your buns and sip your tea, stroll about the streets and listen to the many street musicians, visit the Jane Austen center! As mentioned at the beginning, I adore Austen's works and there is no better way to immerse yourself into literature then to see it all. Once again, though, I have to admit I wasn't able to squeeze this attraction in. That means I already have a list of things to do when I visit again!- Jane Austen Center- Walk around Prior Park- Try a Bath Bun (and another Sally Lunn for comparison)- Walk the Bath Skyline walk- Stroll around the Circus. The Circus is not to be confused with the Royal Crescent but they are connected by Brock street. Really it is silly that I didn't walk that way while I was there!

 As usual, just some extra photos of the area for you to enjoy. I cannot wait to return to the Somerset area and complete my current "places to see" list. I love to pack in as many places and experiences are I can while travelling but you should always leave some things out to enjoy on a return trip and to fully enjoy those things you do manage to fit in. See you next time, Bath.