A Summer in Chilly, Wet Scotland.

Castles, kilts, bagpipes, and lots of outdoor wandering make for a lovely time. Forget the research!

I needed a change of scenery amidst the tourism of Portsmouth and managed to find an absolute jewel in the south west of Scotland outside of Aberfoyle called Duchray Castle; a lovely and small 16th century castle nestled in the wild and green Queen Elizabeth Forest Park.

I found Duchray Castle and her owners via my favorite work-away organization, HelpX. Recently converted into a luxury B&B, Duchray boasts four well appointed rooms with a great hall or vault, lounge, and a fabulous trained chef and event manager for her owner. During the summer the castle hosts weddings and lays off the daily grind of hiking B&B guests - I stayed from July 15 to August 21st to help with the weddings and it was lovely - despite the rainy days and chill in the air!

My hosts, Frances and Oliver Bigwood were fantastic. Immediately I settled in, which admittedly rarely poses a challenge for me, and fell in love with the combination of luxury, simplicity, old and new of Duchray. While part of the castle you see above is original and from the 16th century, much was added in the Victorian era. Mostly, though, the magic of the B&B came from Frances and Oliver. While it would be easy to ramble on about Frances' impeccable design taste and Oliver's dedication to structure and grounds keeping, I'll allow you all to read about it for yourself and from the horses' mouth. Read all about it HERE ... and maybe whet your appetite for a Scottish adventure starting at Duchray.

The vault in Duchray has an incredible mantel - the wax drips down and creates such a romantic effect perfect for weddings, and, of course, cozy and inviting in general.

Granted, I was still in the middle of my masters dissertation. Anyone who has spent a modicum of time around me, though, knows that a place such as Portsmouth (while lovely) is not going to keep me long against the rest of the UK and my favorite country (outside of Greece), Scotland. No worries, all my school work came with me and for those who may be interested themselves, the National Library of Scotland is fabulous. I may just go back and hang out there for a while. Frances' schedule at Duchray was ideal as it gave me most days in the week off to work but also with days of B&B work which provided relief from the tedium of dissertation work.

My time in Scotland consisted of lots of relaxed walks, tons of midge bites (will not miss those little buggers), treks into the village of Aberfoyle simply to use my phone, weddings, trips to Edinburgh to use the NLS and see the Military Tattoo.

I may not have moved about Scotland as much as I would have liked but neither did I work as often as I should have. Rather, my days were half-full of bobbing about the woods and reading more spy fiction novels for my dissertation than I ever thought I would - it'll be a while before I watch a Bond film. At the very least I had a lovely setting for it - although moving from the Portsmouth sun and into the wettest place in Scotland was not ideal it did dispel my freckles to their winter-time dusting. Find the positive.

With all this inviting green it would be hard to imagine NOT wandering off a little each day.

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I do need to clarify before anyone gets ideas about me having too much fun instead of working - I did not stay in the castle proper. I did not get to parade about being a princess and I didn't even chuck a stuffed cow from battlements. Instead there was a small cottage at the beginning of the Duchray estate that I shared with another girl (also to clairify, this arrangement in no way lessened the greatness of Scotland or Duchray but...for your castle envy). It was lovely because it was private and I got my very own bat.

I am honest enough to admit that he scared the crap out of me and I yelped and jumped quite violently when he flew at my face. Truthfully he may have been flying above my head...but hey.

Edinburgh is a fantastic city. Small, historic, artsy, full of good food, shopping, and hikes. While most of my time there was spent in the National Library, I spared some time for other stuff too. If ever you are in the area, Edinburgh is an absolute must-see. The best part for me was finally being able to go back after 11 years! My favorite thing in Edinburgh this time around was the Military Tattoo that hopefully, one day, I'll get to experience again. As always, having to leave Scotland is saddening and I am already looking forward to the next trip!

Victoria Street terrace

This has been added simply to compare the cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow - only about 40 minutes apart and so very different. This is a mounted statue of the Duke of Wellington and he has a traffic cone just behind his horse. In Glasgow, though, Wellington wears his traffic cone on his head. Cheeky.

Representing the People's Liberation Army, China has a dragon showcased in the castle facade with steam and fog billowing from the entry way.

Lots of men (and women, but let's focus on what's important) in kilts with bagpipes. There are fewer things that captivate me so. To be clear, I love the bagpipes and the kilts - not just the kilts.

Representing the US, the USAF Honor Guard Drill team. There were far less of them than any other represented group but the place was silent as they flipped those guns around - pretty neat and zero fumbles! (go USA!)

Outside of the bustle of Edinburgh and the bust wedding weekends, Scotland was and remains a superstitious and spiritual place. When in Aberfoyle I saw a fairy walk so I checked it out.

Day Family Circus Defend's Turin

Family reunions are just one of those things. The 'have to attend' things that may or may not be so interesting, the "ugh is it that time again?" thing and even "so what's his name again?" time. Thankfully I've never been to a family reunion without excellent food, so chin up!

My family, though, debunked that stereotype this summer and it was awesome.

Thought up by my brilliant cousin to get her family traveling, immerse in history, treat her mother to a fantastic birthday present and find her family tree.... our vacation to Ireland was born. Sounds busy.

My aunt would be going and so would her sister-in-law (the Irish side of the family). My parents joined the bunch, so did my other cousin and his family...only seemed natural that my sister, brother-in-law, and I would jump on board as well! I have never known myself to pass up on travel.

Not to be outdone, we rented a castle. I'd be lying if I told you I didn't love the reactions after telling people who asked that we had a castle to ourselves. It's practically the other American dream.

Welcome to Turin castle. This castle was a purely defensive tower castle and there was a much more stately and luxurious home behind it. Now, though, cows and sheep roam around its ruins. This place had everything - kitchen, great hall with minstrels loft (my impromptu sleeping quarters), plush bedrooms, a perfectly steep and slightly dangerous spiral stair, full-size suit of armor with sword taller than me (!!!), a rooftop view point, upper lounge and a priests' hole. Which I immediately went down into. Obviously. 

I also purchased a rugby shirt. I get more touristy as I go about the world, it seems.

I would happily look at this with coffee in hand everyday for forever.

To re-cap, there were eleven of us at Turin, the other six would be arriving after I left. With so many of us and three vehicles we were not too fussed about doing everything together. That being said, we were all on board for a trip to the Aran Islands. In case anyone wants to know for future reference it IS possible to get very very sunburned in Ireland. I had been living on a ship on the Mississippi river in the terrible, gross, suffocating and humid heat of the American South and yet I got badly burned in Ireland, the land of my fellow freckled pale people. You can't take me anywhere.

Beyond that, being so close to the charming village of Cong and Ashford Castle, the ladies all took high tea while the men did....something. I think they stayed at the castle and watched football (not the American kind). We all felt very posh, I'm sure. Our little cousin, once again, showed her propensity for excitability when she heard there was a gift shop in the castle (and why wouldn't there be one?). After all the tea and tasty bits she was the only one who could move that fast - but up the stairs into the shop she shot!

I do not care how touristy or even American it may be to take 'high tea'....I would do it every week.

Ashford Castle was actually owned by the Guinness Family before being turned into a luxury hotel. I love Guinness but I am very happy the hotel has taken over because activities such as equestrian and falconry have been added. Falconry was also a joint trip with all eleven of us though only five participated (my cousin, her aunt and the two little cousins...and myself, of course). Falconry was very cool but not as exciting as the films make it out to be - you can't stroke them as it adds heavy oils to their feathers - just as handling old manuscripts can be ruined by our hands - and is dangerous for them. The care for them must be very specific and it was a fantastic experience though one I am unlikely to bother repeating. Thankfully, my brother-in-law is in possession of a lovely camera and even lovelier photography skills...

 Little cousin numero dos and ... not sure which hawk. The female was Lima but I cannot remember the males name, but he was smaller.

 This is Lima. She and I were sizing each other up. These hawks are awesome and live in a female dominated society. 

Without a single doubt, though, the absolute BEST thing about this Irish adventure (besides the castle and fun times in the lounge playing Bananagrams and feasting on Rowntrees sweeties and Bakewell tarts) was the equestrian. 

Though we are not related by blood, my cousins' aunt and I are firmly connected through our crazy equine-loving tendencies. Twice in the week we inhabited Turin castle she and I went off on our own to trek through the lovely woods and hill around Ashford Castle. I neither remember or am sad to have missed whatever the rest of our family did because this was the BEST riding experience I have had. Ever. Anywhere. I find this to be a very important thing because I have a herd of horses (and the human family that keeps them) whom I adore to no end in another country but even the riding at Ashford trumps the mountain treks of Papigo (I feel like a traitor saying so, though!). 

This is Apollo. He is an Irish draft horse. When I have the time and space to have my own horses, Irish drafts are at the top of the list. Tall, strong, steady and sure-footed. 

 This is Apollo lovingly supporting me on his back. We went riding with Barney (Barnacle) a Connemara pony and Puffin, young and green Connemara pony who was under the command of our tour guide. Who was amazing. Her name was Fiona. 

The rides here, which we did twice, two hours each, were so great because of the laws here (much less stringent than the US) and because of Fiona our guide. She trusted us and listened when we said what we wanted out of the ride. Apollo and Barney were so excited to be on a ride where cantering was the main speed you could feel the joy! Being a trail horse that has to plod along with beginners kicking and squirming on your back must be a terrible job but Aunt and I were SO thrilled that when we went back again, we requested Apollo and Barney again. I miss them.

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 These three inhabited a paddock that went around Turin castle. That means that I went on two treks with Apollo, had these three to hang out with everyday (and I did hang out with them everyday) and we also went on a ride with a couple non-riders. I am so happy to report that little girl cousin enjoyed herself and has since ridden again!! Spread the equestrian joy.

 Lounging about.

 We're a silly lot. We had red noses, tiny medieval action figures, and masks to mess around with daily - and of course always a tray of pudding and sweeties!  

We even all went away with matching t-shirts. The Day Family Circus was a success and we have the shirt to prove it! 

 Knights of Turin Castle

 THE Knight of Turin Castle, really. That sword was massive and very very heavy.

 My aunt and I have traveled together before and I have found, curiously, that there always seems to be a silly photo of me and a towel. I have yet to discover the reasons for this but it makes for fun at the very least. 

 NOTE: beware the killer rabbit of Caerbannog, And the poor cow that was unceremoniously chucked from the battlements. 

 In preparation for their castle adventure the little cousins were introduced to Monty Python and the Holy Grail. They acted out some scenes for us, hid the killer bunny in sneaky places (he found my sleeping quarters in the minstrels loft a couple times) and we had great fun chucking the poor cow. If you need a reminder of that funny scene between the French and Arthur...look it up on youtube. But, for the sake of the cow:

(Arthur)Now this is your last chance!   I've been more than reasonable....
(French guy)   Fetchez la vache.
               Qua?
               Fetchez la vache!
 
...poor cow goes mooing all the way down.

A successful ride :)

O'Hearn's Storm Dublin

On June 18th I embarked on a very long day. I worked the morning away down on a ship in New Orleans, caught a ride to the Louis Armstrong airport in and flew to T.F Green. There wasn't a whole lot of time - just enough to unpack, do some laundry, re-pack and run hurried errands before driving up to Boston the next afternoon to catch a trans-Atlantic flight with my sister and brother-in-law. Hurried? Absolutely - I had to buy two new pairs of shoes and jeans that morning! Very much worth the rush.

My family is part Irish or at least, my sister married an Irish guy and my cousins have some Irish blood in 'em. The beginning of this Irish tale begins in Dublin.

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Blessed with a fair amount of legroom on the flight, we landed at 10 am ready to begin a day of romping about Dublin - at least, I did.

We all bought "Dublin passes" (the EU is fabulous for tourists) that were good for 2 days and I had a loooong list of things to get through.

We weren't able to see all I wanted but those who have traveled with me or listened to me talk about it (so pretty much everyone) knows that I always want to see EVERYTHING and am good at moving my butt in order to do so.

Fed, watered and bags dropped off, it was time to see where we were and where we wanted to go. Kate and Keith learned firsthand that for a frequent traveler I am not the best navigator. Pretty terrible, in fact and cities are the worst. The way I see it is, if I walk about enough I'll find my way and see some cool things along the way! We managed St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christchurch before finding Trinity College and the Book of Kells.

 Outside St. Patrick's Cathedral

Founded in 1191 but often rounded up to the "13th Century", the Cathedral has an estimated 700 people buried there! Likely the only one we're all familiar with is Jonathan Swift who wrote Gulliver's Travels. Certainly this cathedral is one of my favorites for architecture, splendor, and history. 

My other favorite? Wells Cathedral in England. In 2007 while on the way to Torquay we stopped in Wells for an hour or two; it will always be memorable because the drive (no names here) managed to break the rental cars' side mirror.

 Stunning campus at Trinity and a lovely day, too!

Kate and Keith. Maybe considering another degree in good ol Dublin? You never know!

Sadly, the Book of Kells was not included with the pass, but we did find some family members sitting around outside!

Turning around after taking this photo I saw a man wearing a Seward, AK sweatshirt...of course it was our cousin (who else has an AK sweatshirt?) and he said he heard me gabbing away (naturally it was me - who else could it have been?) 

After meeting up with the Liskey's we went over to the National Museum (specifically archaeology!) and learned about Vikings and weaponry...pretty much the best museum ever. Similar to most of Europe and even the UK, the national museums are free and excellent in quality - check out Ireland's national museums where you can easily spend a couple rainy days.

 Keith outside the museum (we were waiting on a little cousin to finish browsing in the gift shop - her favorite new past-time).

Very cool floor in the gift shop/entry way, it depicts the astrological star signs. I found my brother-in-law's clan, too - O'Hearn was originally 'Ahearn' (I bought him a bookmark even though I'm the crazy reader in the family).

This is where it started getting tough - jet lag was settling in on us but my sister most of all. We were barely able to rouse ourselves for dinner! Thankfully we did and found a great pub in Temple Bar. Sister and I tried Magners for the first time after we affronted the nice Irish man by asking for the English Strongbow and it was deemed a success. Of course we indulged in dessert, a full belly is the best guarantee to sleep well.

When I go back to Dublin, regardless of how oddly expensive it is, Temple Bar is on the list for live music and good food.

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Oh, Ireland. The home of that delightful dark amber liquid, Guinness. Our first stop of the day and the one we are most looking forward to. Later we hope to reach Jameson as well as the old gaol, Kilmainham.

Instead of getting turned about in the old city of Dublin or wasting precious time walking, we hopped on one of the double-decker red sightseeing buses and listened to a tour as we wound through the city toward St. James' Gate. Dublin is a beautiful Georgian city (which itself comes from the Palladian architecture style and its Greek and Roman revival) that, after the Act of Union with Great Britain in 1801 saw a sharp decline in upkeep and popularity. We did not make our way to this part of the city on our own so it is a great thing that we decided on the bus rather than a taxi; I know Marriott has a well appointed property there and I have heard from old co-workers that the Dublin properties are among the best - so we'll add those to the list of potential accommodation for the future.

This piece of art is a sculpture representation of Guinness in the world, modeled after their draft pint. I'd post photos from all around the piece but let's be reasonable.

 Guinness is awesome. The shop is large and full of fun stuff, the brewery is multiple floors of old, new, the smell of beer and the upper floor bar has 360 degree views AND a complimentary pint! We were unable to grab a seat around the room - it being a Saturday and popular for tourists (eugh, tourists) - but walking around, it was fun to ponder what lay before us in the city. The best thing we all took away from there, I think I can easily say for all three of us, were the pint glasses. Two glasses in each box that they engrave right in front of you!! Oh, plus the recipe cards that all include Guinness as a main ingredient - I regularly make two so it seems time to expand my repertoire.

I am sad to say that for all my looking, plotting and planning (and hoping) we were unable to see the goal. The queue was massive and none of us wanted to wait, really. Instead we went in to the museum (no queue there) and then popped over to Jameson for a taste and gander. Sadly, again, we were unable to join a tour as we had to rush on over to the airport to pick up our parental units - very backward, really. When the kids rent the car and pick up the parents, times are-a-changing.

 Great idea for a chandelier - whatever you drink the most of put to use after enjoyment.

On our way to the best breakfast ever - a pint of Guinness - keeps you going strong all day long.

sláinte