The Golden Hills of Tuscany

In lieu of spending more time in Greece I quickly made up my mind to head back to Italy. There are many other countries I want to visit, of course, but Italy is all prime vacation spots, good wine, good food, friendly people, and home to some cousins of mine.

After Delphi with Saffron and Talenn I headed back to Patra to catch a ferry (Grimaldi lines) to Ancona, Italy. It seems to be a special route - the ferry had very few passengers like myself and was mostly truckers heading to Italy. Needless to say we had to wait to disembark until the trucks were off (which took a while). Because of this I missed my train (the last train!) to Florence and got to hang out in a train station until 2am! Will wonders never cease. Thank goodness for Kindle's with long battery life and Italian espresso.

The ferry was cool but ridiculously expensive. Lesson: ferries from the UK to mainland are cool. Greek ferries to Italy are not.

Thankfully there are always wonderful views on ferries regardless of any other factors. This adventure included: almost missing the ferry because of a local bus route (lots of stops!), being at the wrong ferry port and having to pay a (very expensive) taxi to take me, booking a "deck seat" which meant that I had no bed (too expensive), and being one of approximately 8 females on board.

It's a good thing I tend to find all adventures beneficial in some way.

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Welcome to Tuscany!!  After a long wait I hopped on a train to Florence (via Bologna) and then to Castelfiorentino. My next host, Lorenzo, picked me up with an English woman and we were whisked off for a horseback ride!

Lorenzo and Sharon, an English woman who is living the dream, run a farm that specializes in horse riding holidays. Their stable is called La Fiaba which in Italian means "the fairy tale". They have 3 barn cats, 2 dogs (Fiona and Lizzy who live at home with them), and 12 horses.  While I was there Sharon and I tried to ride out twice a day to get the horses ready for the busy season. Sound like paradise for this animal lover yet? It should! 

 Welcome to La Fiaba! Check out the link above for their horses and rides!

 Here is does not matter where you ride. In Italy there is what's called the "right to ride" law (or something to this effect) which allows horses on all roads and paths that are not paid and posted as private. Very different from the US where you need a "license tag" on your horses' saddle or bridle (and that costs just like your car)!

Putting Francy, Wilma, and Biondina in for the night. Sharon is out there in the blue filling up their water buckets.

The horses here are a real mix of personality, background, and size! I was able to ride an Irish Cob by the name of Looby, take her 3 year old daughter on walks (Perla), ride an ex racehorse (Tom), prance with a beautiful Arabian (Hari), figure out a Trotter's odd trot and canter (Dariff), relax with a sweet Haflinger pony (Wilma), and be schooled in the school ring by an old pro, Pancho. My time here, which was sadly only 1 week, was both exciting and peaceful! This is not to say it was easy, short work! Sharon and I worked long days feeding, watering, riding and working horses. Thankfully Lorenzo was always ready and willing to help us back on our feet with his simple yet satisfying and tasty Italian lunches! It took me only 2 days to appreciate the Italian afternoon siesta.

In addition to horse work and treks, Sharon and Lorenzo introduced me to friends who run their own accommodation and restaurant. Their names are Lara and Tiberio and they run Soiano. Please check out their website, Soiano. Welcoming you into the heart of Tuscany, their "farmhouse" is a large and warm Tuscan home that sits in the hills of Tuscany. Offering simple, farm-to-table food that is often made by Tiberio himself will entrance you to stay and never leave.  Personally I could have eaten all of his bread on my own and asked for more (and I think I did!). On my first night in Tuscany, Sharon and I sat and enjoyed wine and Tiberio's food at a long communal style table with a roaring fireplace while Lorenzo and Tiberio frequented the kitchen. This, my friends, is what dreams are made of.  

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We also enjoyed a lunch out one day between horse chores which was a nice change and chance to get out into the (tiny) village of Iano. What is one big difference between American and Italian culture (besides siesta)? Read on...
I remember my cousin and I meeting on a couple occasions during her lunch break and the topic of wine at lunch - she informs me that it is OK for her to have a glass on her break but her American self cannot quite indulge. I have no such reservations. "When in Rome" and all that. Rest assured I did not forget the horses while enjoying lunch out with Sharon and Lorenzo!

I think it's plain to see I enjoyed my time in Tuscany very much. It is a place I will consider returning to on every European visit. Staying with Sharon and Lorenzo was natural,  felt like home, and I think was beneficial for all of us. And, according to Lorenzo, my Italian (though very limited) is quite good! Clearly this means I must return to La Fiaba and Montaione to improve it.

But, lest we forget the equine's who enthralled me...

My little sweet spot, Little Blue. He is privately owned and so we never took him out. At 3 years old and a stallion he is spunky and energetic...but tiny - Sharon and I stand to his ears!! There may be something off with his knees and how he grew when young, but he is so sweet that I am OK with having this pony as a pet.

Hari is yawning after a trek out with me, Looby, and Sharon. She was a bit lazy in the beginning and didn't want to canter when she was in front but couldn't resist the run when Looby decided she wanted to be in front! Two mares running for the barn! For reference, Hari is quite a bit faster than Looby but Looby is certainly dominant!

Sharon and Looby in the ring

Dariff and Marostica. Dariff is a trotter and has different movements, is tough to get actual canter steps out of and he loves to cut corners (literally) but I loved riding him! He is in the foreground. Marostica looks to be judging him for something.

This handsome devil is Nigel. Resident barn tomcat.

 Tom and me. The ex-racehorse (who I don't think ever won anything) is a gentleman. Very responsive to seat and leg, Tom is a dream for any experienced rider. Quite comfortable, too.

Little Blue got out and was waiting for us in the stable area. See how tiny he is??

 Gallante, Bess, and Pancho in their paddock - Tom should be around there somewhere, too!

Sharon and Francy

Things I highly recommend in Tuscany:  

 - enjoy a farm stay and dinner with Lara and Tiberio 

 - have a trek (or two) with Sharon and Lorenzo!

 -  visit Siena, San Gimignano, and Volterra - you can even see Volterra up on its hill while riding with Sharon! 

 - Florence is under an hour from the train stop at Castelfiorentino and the cluster, sea side villages of Cinque Terre are well worth a weekend trip!

- eat and be merry!

Firenze, Where the Beauty Is

The title, "Where the Beauty is" references a song from the Operatic musical, "The Light in the Piazza" when a girl from North Carolina visits Florence. Though having nothing to do with my visit, I enjoy the play and the title is fitting!

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Beginning life as a Roman settlement for retired and veteran army officers, Florence (then Fluentia) has held a steadfast place in history since its birth in the 1st century BCE.  Best known as the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence (or Firenze in Italian) is a small but densely populated city in the heart f Tuscany that attracts more than a million tourists annually. Arguably on my top 5 list of places to visit (repeatedly), Florence is guaranteed to capture your attention with little effort.

Though I had an unexpected delay the night before and missed my train, it ended up being a blessing in disguise as it allowed me to arrive in Florence at 6am the next morning - 8 hours before I had to meet Lorenzo in Castelfiorentino!

So, welcome to Florence, let's take a tour!

I left the Santa Maria Novella train station, with my bags stowed there, to begin my Florentine morning. Not bothering to look at a map or ask for the direction of the Duomo I walked in what seemed like the correct direction. Thank goodness I was right because I had a lot I wanted to see!

I began my tour walking by the Medid Chapel (Cappelle Mediciee) and the Medici Library.  The Medici family of Florence is, beyond a doubt, the most important line to come from this region of Italy. Beginning their fame as bankers, the Medici resided over the Medici bank which became the most influential and largest bank in Europe during the 15th century. Begun by Giovanni de Medici, it was his son, Cosimo that brought the bank and family to its famous height.  The Medici were private citizens and remained so, despite their political affluence and influence. The family produced 4 popes and 2 queen regents - Catherine and Marie - of France. Thanks to the Medici family and Florence's place as a trade state and the Renaissance, the city was built up quite nicely!

Medici Chapel was added to San Lorenzo to honor the Medici family.

The cathedral of Florence is called the Santa Maria del Fiore. It was built upon the ruin of an older church and you can see the original remains in the crypt.  You may have heard it referred to as the "it duomo" and may not have known it had another name! The cathedral was designed and built by Arnolfo di Cambio and begun at the end of the 13th century.  The dome, for which it is most famous, was designed and built by Filippo Brunelleschi and was not started until the 15th century.  Brunelleschi had to jump through a lot of hoops to get his dome his way. Brunelleschi took his inspiration from the Roman Pantheon (built by Neri), but because there were no proven ways to support a dome of its size, and the way Neri had achieved it (with timber frames) was not available in Florence, Brunelleschi faced obstacles that nearly beat his dome.

Il Duomo

Thankfully he succeeded and even though it was Neri who first designed and solved such structure problems hundreds of years previous, people have heard the name "Brunelleschi" but not "Neri".

You can climb to the top of the dome, the bell tower (campanile), and visit the cathedral, baptistery, and the Duomo museum so be sure to set aside plenty of time!
Cool things to note/see:
- the interior of the dome is a large fresco (covers the whole dome) of the last judgement
- the cathedral is the 4th largest in the world (after St. Peters in Rome, St Pauls in London, and the Duomo in Milan)
- the floor inside the cathedral is all mosaic
- the facades are a mix of green, pink, and white marble
- the baptistery doors, designed and carved by Ghiberti are named the "gates of paradise". Visit them in the museum and ask about the competition ... or read an awesome book called "Brunelleschi's Dome" by Ross King!
- the best view of Florence and the Florentine hills is from the top of either the tower or the dome (but you should see both!)

 West facade

 Campanile

 Baptistery from the campanile. It may not look so appealing from here, but this piazza is the most frequented and famous in the region. Try to arrive early in the morning or suffer crowds of students, tourists, and busy Florentine's! 

View of the cathedral from the campanile!

Of course there are many other beautiful and important churches in Florence and many of them sport similar multi-colored marble facades. When walking about Florence be sure to include the Santa Croce and the San Miniato al Monte to your list! The Santa Croce, also built by di Cambio, is home to the tombs of Michelangeo, Galileo, Machiavelli, and Dante...but Dante's is empty! There is a memorial, though, for Dante.

West facade of the Santa Croce

San Miniato is located up on a hill (hence the 'al monte' which actually means 'mountain') across the river Arno that offers a spectacular view of Florence.  Be sure to wander about the cemetery there that is home to famous and well-off men with impressive tombs (the author of Pinocchio, for instance).

 West facade of San Miniato al Monte

Sitting in the shade of a tree with the city to my right and the facade to my left!

Taken on my trip in 2005, this shows part of the monumental cemetery at San Miniato

Walking from the Duomo I first found myself walking with purpose toward the Uffizi gallery, which is my favorite museum. Ever. Before arriving there, though, I came into the Piazza della Signoria and to the Palazzo Vecchio.

 The Palazzo Vecchio is a famous symbol of Florence. Originally (and still) the seat of the city government, the Palazzo has seen many changes but remained the center of the city. Today there is a museum inside, as well. "Palazzo Vecchio" means "old Palace or castle"

The Piazza della Signoria is one of the most famous meeting places for locals and tourists. In summer there are festivals and concerts here (which I've seen first hand - very easy to loose people!) but that day (around 7:30am) the piazza was peaceful and echoing with my boot heels.

For me, the best part of the Piazza is the Loggia dei Lanzi (or Loggia della Signoria) which today is an open air gallery that houses Hellenistic style Renaissance sculptures.  Originally the closed off colonnade was used for ceremonies but now it is an introduction to the adjoining Uffizi gallery. 

 This is Hercules and the centaur, Nessus. Sculpted by Giovanni da Bologna in 1599.

The loggia holds mostly sculptures of Roman and Greek mythology and history. The bronze in the middle is Perseus holding the head of Medusa. The two lions in the bottom right that flank the stairs into the loggia are the Medici Lions. The lion furthest right in this photo was sculpted in Roman times and restored in the 16th century while the other was originally sculpted in 1598.

 Look Roman? It's not! This is the lion from the end of the 16th century sculpted by Flaminio Vacca

Walking between the loggia and the Palazzo Vecchio (straight and to the right from the lion above) you come into the Uffizi gallery courtyard. The courtyard is lined with sculptures of famous and influential Italians from Dante to Machiavelli. Inside, the Uffizi houses works mostly from the 12th to 17th centuries and its focus in Renaissance. With works from Michelangelo, Botticelli, Giotto, and of course Leonardo da Vinci, the Uffizi is a must see! Beware it could take you all day - the lines at the Uffizi are tremendous and daunting for a day traveler short on time so try to schedule a day just for the Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Signori, Uffizi, and the Ponte Vecchio!

From a sunny summer day in 2005, you can see that the Uffizi gallery encloses its courtyard on three side. The halls are long with statuary leading into smaller rooms for paintings and artful reflection. Straight ahead to the Arno and Ponte Vecchio!

The Ponte Vecchio (old bridge) connects the Piazza della Republica and Uffizi to the Palazzo Pitti. As it stands today, the bridge was built in 1345 after being destroyed by flooding. Amazingly it was the only bridge not destroyed by the Germans in WWII. The bridge is lined with shops - and in 1593 it was declared that only goldsmiths could house their shops on the bridge and today it is the same! I mentioned the Palazzo Pitti because the Medici, that ruling family of Florence, moved their residence to Pitti in the 16th century and they had a private walkway, called the "corridoio Vasariano", built above the gold shops so they would not have to walk with the people they ruled. 

Ponte Vecchio. The small square windows above is where the Medici had their private walkway. The gold shops hang over the Arno selling their wares. A bustling and crowded bridge, it is worth the walk even if you (like me) have no interest in the wares.

Across the Arno sits the newer residence of the Medici, the Palazzo Pitti (or Pitti Palace).  Looking almost French with its grounds, the core of the palace was originally built for the banker, Luca Pitti. It later served as the seat of the Medici and the Duchy of Tuscany. Even later it was used by Napolean!  

 Il Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio as seen from the Palazzo Pitti

The Palazzo Pitti from its grounds. The grounds of the Pitti are large and open with a pond and fountains, and a grotto! This photo was taken from the Boboli garden that extends behind the palazzo.

The grotto by Buontalenti which is in the Boboli garden. To the left of the grotto (sadly not in this photo) is the door that leads to the Vasari Corridor! 

Florence has windy alleys with numerous piazzas, churches, and historical sites. These sites are just the main attractions that I was able to see on my morning (and later an afternoon) while waiting for a train.  

The food in Florence is, of course, excellent, but try to avoid eating in places like the Duomo plazza if you want the best fare.  Beyond gelato, I went to the markets for dried fruits and local olives, cheeses, and snacks to get me through my time there! 

If you are a paper/journal lover be sure to go into an Il Papiro where they are famous for their handmade paper and journals - the most famous are the marbleized journals!

 Piazza della Repubblica on the way from the train station!

 Giotto standing guard outside the Uffizi gallery

Also in the Uffizi courtyard

 Looking down at the world from the top of Brunelleschi's dome! That is the bell tower to the right

 One of many markets that kept me fed while roaming the Florentine streets

 Meeting some Rhode Island and US natives while walking along the Arno! Notice the Il Papiro bag...

Looking at Florence from across the Arno

 Arno an the sun trying to peak out!

Atop the bell tower and looking out over the San Lorenzo basilica and Medici Chapel

Ιωάννινα, a lake-side town

Spending 3 months in the Zagori mountains means I also spent some time in the capitol of the region, Ιωάννινα. In English, Ioannina. Some people pronounce it "yawn-ee-na" and others "yo-awn-ee-na" and others even put a gamma (g/j) in front! The name means "city of John" or something to that effect. Regardless the name is deceptively simple. About 1 hour down the mountain from Papigo, Ioannina is where Nefeli and Atho go to school and where I go if I need to replace items or visit a doctor, etc.

Four years ago I went there with my mum and sister but it was all by the seat of our pants. This time I was able to spend quite a few afternoons in Ioannina and got to retrace out steps from 2010 and explore the city at will.

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Lake Pamvotis

The city is on the lake Pamvotis (Παμβώτις) and is often foggy because of it! Originally founded by Justinian in the 6th century, Ioannina began as an Byzantine city (meaning it was eastern-Roman if you will). Justinian was one of the last emperor to speak Latin officially and sought to win back and revitalize the western Roman empire. Ioannina flourished as a Byzantine city but was conquered by the Ottomans in the 1430. It was not until 1913, after the Balkan wars, that Ioannina became part of Greece. Their independence day is February 21st! Ioannina has a rich history as a city of enlightenment and the city has always been home to a large Jewish population (since the 1st century CE) as well as Muslim communities.

The citadel, located on the lake side and built up like a small acropolis, is an historical castle fortress that is easy to get lost in (apparently intentional to help capture enemies) and has museums and private homes. Inside you can see the Byzantine museum, Aslan Pasha Mosque, and the Ethnographic Museum. The citadel is usually quiet so it is a peaceful place to walk and see the city and lake. You may get lost, though, as I said the alleys are winding and more than a few of them lead to dead ends!

 Street in the citadel/fortress/castle!

 Walls of the citadel

Ethnographic Museum on the left (with very tiny, short doors) and the mosque is on the right. There are monuments/shrines to wars throughout the courtyard here.

The historical area of Ioannina is home to cafes, shops, bakeries, and two places I miss already: Motley and a dried fruit and nut shop. I first went to Motley with Katerina, Clara, and her family just before Christmas. Needless to say that on (nearly) every trip back to Ioannina following I stopped by Motley and slowly went through their menu.

For me, Ioannina turned into the place where I go to have a slow paced (but a little productive), coffee and sweet induced day full of "me time" and maybe meet a friend. I certainly was not able to see all of it, being on foot, but I now know that there is a biking/running path along the lake to check out for next time!