Taking a bus from Pyrgos to Patra (the supposed original carnival) we planned on catching a bus to Delphi. Planned. Things that led to lots of sitting about and being generally unsure included: KTEL dropping us off at a small downtown stop that I did not recognize. There are two smaller stations and we had to find the other one for the Delphi connection. Wrong!!Also, on Carnival Sunday there are no buses running to Delphi! Instructions after that were complicated and involved lots of town/port names we did not know. Back to original small bus station. We decided, after asking a few times if all buses were running, to go to Amfissa and then Delphi. It was quite a long day!
Patra was bustling and decorated for the parties of Carnival! Floats could be seen hiding away until parade time and there were lots of these statues in all shapes and sizes!
Square in Patra we found after wandering about being generally unsure what we should do for travel.
Doing all the heavy lifting of travel.
Δελφοί - Delphi - Delfoi
Located just south-west of Mount Parnassus (home to the Muses), on a spur of the mountain, lies Delphi. The mountain-side sanctuary overlooks the Gulf of Corinth and its own modern town. While it is very touristy, Delphi is one of those places in Greece you cannot miss.
The location of Delphi, which housed the Delphic Oracle, Pythia, is said to have been chosen by divine means. According to myth, Zeus loosed two eagles (one eastward and one westward) and where they met was the center of mother earth (Gaia). There is an omphalos (meaning navel) stone to mark the spot. An oracle in the center of the Greek world.
This is the stone omphalos used to mark the spot where Zeus' eagles met. The carvings are of a knotted net. There is also a link to Rhea and Cronus (parents of Zeus) that this stone may have been the very stone given to Cronus by Rhea instead of Zeus.*
Apollo, to whom Delphi was dedicated, is said to have killed a python who protected the omphalos. The oracle is known as "Pythia" and an epithet for Apollo is "Pythian Apollo". These names derive from this myth. Oracles were always female and they presided over the most important sanctuary in Ancient Greece. Apollo spoke through them.
What's left of the temple to Apollo. This is where the oracle did her thing!
Delphi was also the home of the Pythian games**. Held every four years it was one of four Panhellenic games - Pythian, Isthmian, Nemean, and Olympic. Pythian games honored Apollo and were held in Delphi. The Isthmian games honored Poseidon and were held Isthmia, the Nemean games honored Hercules and his father, Zeus and were held in Corinth and Nemea. The Olympic games, of course, honored Zeus and were held in Olympia. The games were originally for music and art (Apollo was a flute player, patron of the Muses, music and poetry among his other roles). Later chariot races and other athletic games were added. Winners were given wreaths of laurel, Apollo's sacred tree. ***
Stadium for races, located above the temple
Theater used for music and the arts
Delphi was more than most religious temples and games sites. Delphi was one of the richest sanctuaries and most visited by powerful men. Delphi had treasuries lining the streets that represented various towns and cities - the Athenian and Siphnian are the most famous.
Saffron and the Athenian treasury. During use, the treasury would have been full of amphorae and other jars, statues, tripods, and other offerings to Pythia and Apollo
A remodeling of the Siphnian treasury. Arguably the most elaborate treasury, there were Caryatids (or Kore used as columns. Kore are female statues), four friezes, and a detailed pediment. The Siphnians were lucky enough to have silver and gold mines to garner their wealth.
If you ever get a chance to visit Delphi be sure to also visit the museum which has more of Delphi inside along with plans and a map of what it looked like. Further down the mountainside lies the gymnasium (closed this time around) and a tholos (round temple) to Athena. Personally the Tholos is my favorite and it is quieter and not as often visited by the hoards of tourists and school buses. Beware - there are always school trips!
After a misty morning and nicer afternoon, we were able to enjoy modern Delphi. It is small and easy to navigate. Many restaurants cater to tourists so the food can be passable. We ate at a place called Epikouros and it was amazing. AMAZING.
Μετέωρα - Meteora
After Delphi we split ways - but we both made our way to Meteora. Monasteries in the sky! I spent only one night in Kalambaka just shy of the rock towers and I am very happy I did. I will have to visit again, though!
Meteora in Greek means something long the lines of "in the air". There were once 24 but there are only 6 monasteries remaining and in use. They are: Great Meteoron, Varlaam, Rousanou, St. Nicholas Anapausas, St. Stephen, and Holy Trinity. I visited the Grand Meteoron and Varlaam.
In some of the monasteries women are not allowed. They are still lived in, preached in, and old to the old customs of the Greek Orthodox church. In Varlaam I had to put on my jacket to cover my arms and wear a wrap skirt over my jeans. It was a hot day for all of that.
The scenery at Meteora is unlike anything I've seen in my travels. I began the day by hiking for an hour behind Kalambaka to get a view of the rock formations and the small city below. Afterward I hired a cab to take me up to Grand Meteoron (from there Varlaam is easily walkable). I hope to come back and hike up but I had a bus to catch in the afternoon!
After Delphi we split ways - but we both made our way to Meteora. Monasteries in the sky! I spent only one night in Kalambaka just shy of the rock towers and I am very happy I did. I will have to visit again, though!
View of Kalambaka from my small hike. The rock formations around me are not topped with monasteries (at least not any longer)
A triangular square complete with flowing fountain. One of a few in the town. Everywhere you look you can see the rock formations jutting toward the sky.
Meteora in Greek means something long the lines of "in the air". There were once 24 but there are only 6 monasteries remaining and in use. They are: Great Meteoron, Varlaam, Rousanou, St. Nicholas Anapausas, St. Stephen, and Holy Trinity. I visited the Grand Meteoron and Varlaam.
Grand Meteoron
In some of the monasteries women are not allowed. They are still lived in, preached in, and old to the old customs of the Greek Orthodox church. In Varlaam I had to put on my jacket to cover my arms and wear a wrap skirt over my jeans. It was a hot day for all of that.
Varlaam and some rock mountains.
Inside Varlaam looking at their bell tower - there was a monk cleaning the church while I was visiting.
Spring time is very beautiful here
These tracks and crates are used for transporting goods to and from the monastery. Before the stairs were cut for easier access and tourism, there were ropes that the monks would climb as well as a pulley system. If you had any fear of heights this would not have been the place to be back when!
The scenery at Meteora is unlike anything I've seen in my travels. I began the day by hiking for an hour behind Kalambaka to get a view of the rock formations and the small city below. Afterward I hired a cab to take me up to Grand Meteoron (from there Varlaam is easily walkable). I hope to come back and hike up but I had a bus to catch in the afternoon!
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* Rhea (Titan goddess of fertility) and Cronus (or Kronos, Titan god of Time) had 6 children. They were Hera, Hestia, Poseidon, Hades, Demeter, and Zeus. Zeus was the youngest of their children. Cronus was jealous of his own offspring and wanted to remain in power so he swallowed them (Cronus had taken power from Uranus by force). Rhea was able to trick Cronus out of swallowing Zeus by giving him a large rock wrapped in swaddling. This rock is said to be the omphalos.
Zeus was taken away to Crete and raised one goats milk (and by the goat, really). When he was older he returned and was able to save his siblings from Cronus' belly. They revolted, banished the Titans, and rose to Mt. Olympus to rule as the Greek Gods.
The omphalos reappearing when Zeus located Gaia's center at Delphi is symbolic of Zeus' own power and claim on the earth.
** The Pythian (or sometimes Delphic) games were as sacred as the Oracle. The games took place around the Olympic games - 2 years before and after. The games lasted for 3 months and were such a large part of the culture that there was the "Delphic Peace" which allowed competitors and spectators from all over Greece to participate regardless of current politics. The revenue from the games along with the city-state treasuries made Delphi one of the richest places in all of Greece.
*** Laurel, or "Daphne" in Greek, is sacred to Apollo. Daphne was the daughter of a river god. Apollo was struck by one of Eros' (Cupid) golden arrows and Daphne was struck with a lead-tipped arrow. Gold made someone fall helplessly in love and lead caused the opposite reaction.
Apollo chased Daphne endlessly and, afraid of being caught, asked her father for help. Her father changed her into a laurel tree. Apollo was still infatuated with Daphne and so took the laurel to be his sacred tree. He often wore a crown of laurel.
The omphalos reappearing when Zeus located Gaia's center at Delphi is symbolic of Zeus' own power and claim on the earth.
** The Pythian (or sometimes Delphic) games were as sacred as the Oracle. The games took place around the Olympic games - 2 years before and after. The games lasted for 3 months and were such a large part of the culture that there was the "Delphic Peace" which allowed competitors and spectators from all over Greece to participate regardless of current politics. The revenue from the games along with the city-state treasuries made Delphi one of the richest places in all of Greece.
*** Laurel, or "Daphne" in Greek, is sacred to Apollo. Daphne was the daughter of a river god. Apollo was struck by one of Eros' (Cupid) golden arrows and Daphne was struck with a lead-tipped arrow. Gold made someone fall helplessly in love and lead caused the opposite reaction.
Apollo chased Daphne endlessly and, afraid of being caught, asked her father for help. Her father changed her into a laurel tree. Apollo was still infatuated with Daphne and so took the laurel to be his sacred tree. He often wore a crown of laurel.
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Looking into the Gulf of Corinth from one of Delphi's touristy streets
At Athena's tholos
The new type of caryatid!
Post-Delphi snacks! Most cafes here can boast a panoramic view of the Gulf, mountains, olive grove and almond trees in the area
And a throwback from 2010 with Mum and Kate!
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