Meandering Snapdragon: Hiking in Zagori

Nestled between mountain peaks in the Pindus mountain range, the villages of Megalo and Mikro Papigo are, without a doubt, two of the most picturesque and quaint villages in Western Zagori. They are full of buildings - mostly homes, guesthouses and tavernas - that are built using local materials - grey slate is in abundance and wood from the region. They even build parts of buildings and walls using a traditional dry stone technique.

The mountain peak of Astraka looms over Papingo while the "Papigo Towers," which are outcroppings of Astraka, surround the villages to the east. They are stone and look to be a rock climbers (or a goats!) delight. The villages are located in a national park, called Vikos-Aoos and is home to the Vikos Gorge. The gorge runs from the village of Monodenri to Vikos (somewhere around 20km, I think). In 1997 the Vikos Gorge was entered into the Guinness book of World Records for being the world's deepest gorge. It is just shy of 3000 feet deep and about 3.6 feet across at the narrowest part. In other words, lay off the doughnuts before taking a hike through that part!

Part of my daily life here includes hiking around Megalo Papigo with goats and horses but now and then it is nice to take a day and set out for a "real" day hike.

Βικος - Vikos
My first day hike began at 9am and ended just shy of 4pm. I left Papigo and headed down the mountain toward the gorge down to the Voidomatis Spring and then on to the village of Vikos.

Pausing along the trail to admire the view. In parts the trail was generous and paved (here "paved" is more often stone work than pavement) and in others you follow the worn down earth. Easy to follow either way!

The Voidomatis Spring. This river boasts being the cleanest in Greece. A perfect mirror, the water is a barely moving crystal clear that is arguably the most beautiful river I have seen.

At the spring from Papigo you have two choices - Monodenri or Vikos. The gorge begins at Monodendri (which would be behind me in this photo) and ends at Vikos. I hiked up to Vikos.

The view from Vikos. Looking down at the Voidomatis river - can you see how blue that is? Pure, clean, tasty river water blue.

Part way between the spring and Vikos there is an old monastery, I took the side-path on my way back to Papigo. It seems to be abandoned and the doors were locked when I went but I know that people have been able to go inside and see the chapel. There were remains of recent fires so I think it is a popular stopping/camping spot!

Voidomatis running along past the monastery. The progression of blues follows the depth of the water. Alpine vs Caribbean...which blue water do you prefer?

Looking up at the towers

Along the hike there were many route maps for distance trail runs. I am happy that I got to hike these trails before any tourists or runners could clog up the trails!

Κοκκινο Λιφαρι - Red Rock

The hike to Red Rock was stunning but more relaxing than the hike to Vikos. Beginning in Mikro Papigo, the trail hugs the rocky mountain and goes along headed south until you are under the last tower. Here, if you can believe it, is a large face of rock that is red! I'm pretty sure the word for 'rock' in Greek is actually 'βράχος' but all the signs say what I have in bold above. One day I'll remember to ask someone, just not today.

Path to red rock. Full of rocks!

Red rock itself. Hello, vertigo.

Looking across Papigo towards Albania. I think this is Gramos or Γράμος in Greek. Regardless the scenery is stunning.

The village of Megalo Papigo as seen from Red Rock. During the hike, while taking in the scenery and admiring the mountain looming directly overhead, I was able to see many of the horses' roaming grounds. In fact, I was able to keep an eye on the horses throughout my hike! Thank goodness for white horses!

Ρογοβο - Rogovo

A place I stumbled upon four years ago, this gem is a popular watering hole in the summer but blissfully peaceful in the winter - but bring a jacket. Rogovo is the name of the stream here and it is located between Megalo and Mikro Papigo. What makes it famous and popular are the natural little pools that the stream has carved out over the years.

A view overlooking the Rogovo spring. The water was pretty low due to very little snow and rain this winter - I hope it fills up for all the summer tourists!

Sarah sitting atop one of the bridge/dam things. We were exploring our way up to Mikro!

The formations are really something to see. All naturally formed, there are layers of rock that make climbing around quite easy. Just be careful its not too wet or slippery! Even the rocks which rise up around Rogovo, which are slate, are layered.

Behind and Around Papigo

There may be names for some of these places, but on my walks and wanderings around I have not always stopped to read signs or asked where they lead. I prefer simply wandering.

Up behind the village, headed west, there is a dirt road and many small paths off that road that lead into open grassy areas and small, treed in fields. There is a tiny church and this lookout point here. There is a shrine inside also.

Prime example of some rolling hills. The village is in the background. A perfect grazing spot for the horses - often when they are back here they can roam all day without being bothered (by us or anyone else!)

View of the towers and the village from above the dirt road. From here (though not in this picture) you can perfectly see the stable and the goats if they are in sight.

That area between the Papigos

Fancy name, huh? This is one of those places where there is a sign...I have just never paid it any mind. Just before Rogovo, walking to Mikro, there is a pathway leading down into the valley between the villages. Here there is a small river, old bridge, and some pretty neat spots.

Small river going towards the gorge! This water empties into the Voidomatis.

Beautiful little bridge, in a style that is common to the Zagori area, looking up to the towers. There are 46 villages in the Zagori but there is one, Kipi, I have always wanted to visit simply for their bridges! ...Next time.

Making the climb to Mikro.

Rides and Roaming Horses

Nothing here is complete without horses! Nothing much here but some lovely photos with my favorite 12 (11 now that Cassie has been sold off) horses and goats!