I spent two days in Padua (about 20 mi from Vicenza) after I realized three things: there are so many things to see, it's too far to walk (and dark, useless for pictures) before the train leaves, and the museum card I purchased lasted for 48 hours! Perfetto.
Having some time to kill before taking the bus to Padua, I ventured across the street to have a macchiato and croissant. Note that if you're ever travelling via bus or train from Vicenza, the cafe across has amazing coffee and espresso...and it is very, very reasonable! Said cafe is my official pre-day trip stop. MMmm.
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Arriving in Padua right at the start of siesta and lunch break time meant that I was unable to stop at the tourist office for a map and museum ticket (the Padova Card) so instead I turned in a circle and took a guess at which way to walk....I may have gone slightly out of my way to get toward downtown but it was a lovely walk just the same! I noticed too things of note: the is a Blockbuster video store across from the train station (who knew?!) and I also passes the Trade Center memorial (I was unsure what is was but Jessica mentioned it later and *click*).
This memorial, "Memory and Light", was built in 2005 and inaugurated on September 11, 2005. It houses a beam, about 6 meters, from the South WTC.
First, the arena. Padua or Patavium in Latin, was brought into the Roman empire around 45 BCE, being inhabited by the people of the region, the Veneti. Supposedly Patavium is dated back until Vergil's time and was founded by a Trojan (so roughly 1100-1130 BCE). Sadly the only ruin I came across (not in the museum) was the arena. Scarcely standing and with a beautiful, grassy interior, Roman Patavium is certainly history!
With only walls to show, the arena in Verona is certainly more appealing, but Padua's arena is situated in a very nice garden.
Located next to the Scrovegni Chapel (my next stop), part of the arena was torn down to make room for the chapel and palace that was built for Enrico Scrovegni in the early 1300's. Scrovegni, a money lender by trade, built his chapel for personal use. It is a popular (and likely very true) that he commissioned the chapel to atone for the sins of his father (also a money lender and guilty of usury). Of course the chapel would also have been for his own after-life benefit! Enrico's father was actually mentioned in Dante's Inferno for his sins (my guess is Scrovegni got one over on the poet...but I have no actual idea).
The chapel itself, though is famous for its frescoes. Scrovegni hired Giotto to paint his chapel and they are very well preserved today. Giotto's work is mostly known now for being well ahead of its time (his style became popular with the Renaissance). Painting in the 13th and 14th centuries, Giotto's characters are startlingly life like and emotional - something very uncommon at the time.
Of course no photos could be taken inside the chapel (so I took this from the internet) but one wall is a painting of "the Last Judement". Two walls are a series of stories from the lives of Jesus, the Virgin Mary, and the Prophets. All situated under a blue, starry sky. The colors in there are amazing!
Located right next to the chapel, the Civic museum and Eremitani plazza are sure to entertain the archaeologist, historian, and art lover for hours (even modern art)! I struggled to get through and see the things I wanted to see in good time (also slightly maze-like it is easy to get out of sorts). I, of course, spent most f my time on the ground floor and outside with the Roman, Etruscan, and Veneti (and other local settlements) exhibits. The best of all was a grave that had been dug up and moved - preserved amazingly, it was of a warrior and his horse. The horses' backbone was wrapped around the man's skeleton! So neat.
It was on the search for food and the other places my Padova Card would grant me access to that I realized I did not have enough time in one day. The Prato della Valle, a large piazza I wanted to see very much (and preferably in daylight) was at least a 20 minute walk and the sun was already going down. On the way, though, I walked my way through some piazzas teaming with life (the piazza Garibaldi, piazza delle Erbe, piazza della Frutta, and the piazza dei Signori). Padova has one of the oldest universities in the world and students are everywhere! While I would not walk all the way to the Prato della Valle today, I was determined to see more than the Musei Civici!
Coming into the piazza's Erbe and Frutti (and the smaller Signori) brought new energy to my trip to Padova - markets with food, sweets, clothes, handmade housewares, and jewelry covered both squares. It was in the Piazza delle Erbe that I decided to sit down for a spritz aperol and some finger foods - but it was very difficult to decide where to go! Browsing the markets I was able to find one of my favorite sweets - fresh nougat with almonds!
DAY TWO in Padova
Prato della Valle. Statues run around the entire area on both sides of the water. There are four bridges that connect the main square (where the food stalls are) with the park.
Santa Guistina Basilica. So named as it houses the tomb of Saint Justina of Padua. This basilica (and St. Anthony's) both have many Byzantine styled domes! Very cool architecturally and also a unique blend of styles.
Basilica di Sant Antonio or St. Anthony's basilica. This was open to the public and is a worth the trip. You can go inside the basilica itself and it is very active (so dress conservatively and be quiet!) and is a popular pilgrimage stop. The grounds of the church has many smaller courtyards to explore, as well.
Statue of St. Anthony and tiny child (he is the saint of lost people) in one of many courtyards inside the basilica grounds.
Amazing astrological clock in the piazza della Frutta!
One of many side streets that is decorated for Christmas with red lights and a red carpet!
Prato della Valle with fruit stalls in front and the Santa Guistina basilica in the background.
Not wasting any time today! I walked straight back to the piazza Garibaldi and kept going through throngs of (protesting, partying, rabble-rousing?) students to get to the Prato della Valle. This part of Padova is very touristy and beautiful. The Prato della Valle is a large and open square (shaped like an oval) that is popular for students and business people eating lunch, hanging out, enjoying the sun, and of course, fresh produce stalls! Around the square are two large and multi-domed churches - Santa Guistina Basilica and Saint Anthony's.
Other things about Padova that I wanted to see in detail but was unable to do because of Italy's siesta and odd business times...La Specola (observatory) and the Botanic garden.
Something I have learned about sightseeing in a Mediterranean country is to PLAN AHEAD. If it is not high tourist season (and sometimes even if it is) getting into places can be tricky. Closed 4 days out of 7, the observatory (which I was willing to pay extra for!) was a far-off dream. With the botanical garden, I was a little more upset - the gardeners (or whomever) were leaving as I walked up at 2pm...they were supposed to close at 3pm according to all the signs. Rwar.
All the same, though, I loved Padova and will certainly return on my next Italian trip....and plan the day of the week based on the trickily timed sites. Though I found no evidence of shrewishness within the city (worn off from Shakespeare's time) I did have lots of fun watching multiple student gatherings, browsing markets and enjoying their fresh fruit and sweets, and counting the domes on the basilicas (I don't remember how many, sorry)!
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