Saturday, December 7, 2013

Berlin, Potsdam, Dresden...oh my!

I spent two weeks in Germany living in a small village.  Thanks to the generosity of my hosts I was able to get out and see two wonderful cities (and a little bit of Berlin on my own before I arrived).  They are in the order I visited them in.

- BERLIN -

Berlin is a sprawling city but almost all of the main sites and attractions are grouped together... I saw them from a car as I drove to the train station. The driver was kind enough to take some detours for me!  What sticks out most, though is a street.

This street, located in the central area of Berlin in the Tiergarten (or animal garden), is called "John Foster Dulles Allee" - John Foster Dulles Avenue. It's situated in a lovely urban park that passes many of Berlin's sites and current political buildings.  At first I thought it was odd for a street to be named after such a prominent American (then I thought about it).

Berlin was the capitol of Nazi Germany in WWII and this section of Berlin happened to be in the West of Berlin when the Wall was built.  J.F. Dulles hated communism and funded Nazi Germany during the 30's....mystery solved. I had the itching desire to somehow desecrate the sign.

My opinion on Berlin -
-Absolutely go to see the sights and enjoy, they are beautiful and interesting
- Its expensive to eat, stay, and get around on public transport.
- Though the sites and history is very worth seeing I would not bother going outside of the main area unless you're goal is to see a big city with people commuting.

- POTSDAM -

My day in Potsdam, sadly, was rainy and chilly but approaching the Christmas season most cities in Germany are bustling in some way!  Kerstin had an interview in Potsdam and we were meeting Hui Man at the train station to take her back to Hohenleipsich that afternoon.  I got a great feel for the city before I went inside to warm up and shake the rain off my jacket.  The center of the city is small and easy to navigate. 

I explored two areas in particular - the Dutch Quarter, or Hollandisches Viertel (umlaut over the 'a') and the Old Square, or Alter Markt.  Both are popular tourist areas and are next to each other.  In this area there is a main shopping avenue, one of three remaining city gates, the Potsdam museum, the church of St. Peter and Paul (they were erecting a Christmas tree in front!), Nikolaikirche, the filmpark Babelberg, and the newly rebuilt City Palace (Potsdamer Stadtschloss) which was rebuilt with the purpose of housing their Parliament. Potsdam is the capitol of Brandenburg.


Church of St. Peter and Paul in the Dutch Quarter.  The first Catholic church to be built in Potsdam in 1867, it is located off the Brandenburger Strasse (main shopping street). The trucks in the foreground are setting up for a weekly market - the rain didn't dampen their spirits too much. 

City gate Nauener Tor.  Built in 1733 then re-designed in 1755.  Originally there were 5 city gates but only 3 remain today: the Nauener, the Brandenburg (just like the one in Berlin, but smaller and older), and the Jagertor (Hunter's gate).

The Dutch Quarter has 134 red brick, 3-story houses (though they are tall, they are not so narrow as their Dutch counterparts) that were built by and for the Dutch moving to Potsdam mostly to practice their crafts.  Potsdam (Prussia at the time) was very religiously tolerant and had a large number of immigrants - Dutch, French, and Jewish!

The Potsdam Museum, my shelter and warmth from the rain! The museum is mostly in German with the overall explanations and displays in English.  Thankfully it was unnecessary for more to be translated. The museum covers a lot of stuff so I was unable to see all of it at my pace (I can easily spend hours in a museum) but I was lucky and the stuff I like most - military history, history of Prussia, the kings, residences, and state of Brandenburg through principality, Prussia, WWI/II was at the beginning!

Potsdamer Stadtschloss. This was not taken on my rainy day. Sadly there was very large amounts of construction around the palace so I could not get a single picture of the castle.  This is the reconstruction, where the Parliament will be (they have yet to move in).  The dome in the background is of Nikolaikirche and the building on the left foreground is a Hotel Mecure.  It seems Brandenburg considered tearing the hotel down along with the reconstruction because it disturbs the aura of the palace (the hotel is not attractive, having been built in the 70's).

Potsdam is home to large and beautiful parks.  Kerstin and I packed a picnic lunch to eat with Hui Man but the weather was not good enough to eat outside! Shame, because the park had softly rolling hills an was so green. Also it had this neat little statue at the beginning...
Three naked, happy people enjoying the greenery. 



- DRESDEN -
I visited Dresden three times during my stay in Germany. Dresden has a rich history. I became interested in visiting when I first learned about the fire bombings of 1945 while I was in high school (and later when I read "Slaughter House 5" by Kurt Vonnegut my interest was renewed).  Like most old cities Dresden has a New and Old city center (Neustadt and Altstadt).  I spent most of my time in the old part of town; but there are historic sites, markets, and quaint squares in both parts of Dresden.
Dresden is split by the river Elbe and lies in a valley. This is part of the skyline of old Dresden - I am on a bridge that crosses the Elbe.

My first time in Dresden I walked about just getting a feel for the area - I was only there for about 2 hours while Kerstin was working.  The city center in the old town is lovely, especially since Dresden was preparing for their annual Striezelmarkt - Christmas is a very serious thing here! Lots of open space filled with shopping, cafes, and the best street food you can imagine - rostbratwurst!

Here is a quick line-up of the best places to see in (Altstadt) Dresden:
- Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady)
- Neumarkt Square
- Semper Opera House
- Zwinger (also known as the Japanese Palace)
- Procession of Princes 
- Altmarkt Square (where the main Christmas market is held)
- Kreuzkirche (I did not go inside here but it overlooks the Altmarkt)

Frauenkirche. The church is located in the midst of Neumarkt Squre.  This church was mostly rebuilt after the 1945 firebombing. 
Part of Neumarkt Square. A quaint place with variety! Chocolate shops, restaurants, shops, apartments above, performers and artists in the square and Christmas decorations being set-up!

Semper Opera House, Germany's most famous Opera. The building (originally built 1838-41) was completely destroyed in 1945 and the new building was completed in 1985. It is home to the Saxon State Orchestra. 

The Zwinger, or Japanese Palace, surrounds a large rectangular courtyard. At one end (shown here) the building has a glockenspiel. This is a particularly neat one because instead of ringing it chimes. Every 15 minutes it has a slightly different chime that is so pretty! It's bells are more similar to hand bells. The Zwinger was built in the early 1700's. The courtyard was designed to be used as an orchard of sorts and for festivals.  The building was mostly used for exhibitions and collections. Today it is still a  museum.

 The procession of Princes is a mural that shows the Wettins, Saxony's ruling family. They are all depicted on horseback like a Roman military procession. It is located on the outside of a building belonging to the palace complex.

The Altmarkt has a square and a large gallery (think shopping mall). The square is where Dresden holds its Striezelmarkt so I was not able to get a photo of the square itself. The Altmarkt gallery surrounds it and was lined with lights. A very beautiful sight a night!

Kreuzkirche. Home to the Kreuzchor boys choir (700 years old!). Heavily damaged in 1945, the tower is visible over the Altmarkt and provides a panoramic view of the Elbe and Altstadt.

 - STRIEZLEMARKT -

I ended up prolonging my stay in Germany in order to catch the beginning of Dresden' Christmas market which began November 27th. It was cold but very cool to see! The market is in its 579th year, having begun in 1434 (making in 342 years older than the United States). Kerstin and Carsten took HuiMan and myself. It was a night of gluhwein, bratwurst, lots of snacks and window shopping!

Quick history... The Dresden market is the oldest in Germany and is now the most popular. It began in 1434 as a one day market instead of the month long affair it is today.  There are over 240 vendors at the market with all sorts of wares but the main staple of the market is, and always has been, the Christstollen - the traditional Dresden Christmas cake. The name "striezelmarkt" came from the cake.  In medieval German "striezel" meant a yeast-risen pastry (there are raisins in the cake too).  The official cakes are baked by members of a Dresden bakers' guild and they use the same traditional recipe! Of course there is lots of gingerbread and gluhwein (hot mulled wine) too!
Christmas tree! Front and center of Alt markt square
 Overlooking the striezelmarkt. Carousel, ferris wheel, and lots of stalls. 
 So I asked what they call these and it was nothing specific. In fact I think Kerstin may have said its just a 'tower'. I know my aunt has a small one and they are really quite lovely. This one was gigantic (as opposed to the little one that my Aunt has sitting on a table)
 The whole shopping area was decked out, too, with lights everywhere! Very romantic and scenic. 
 This vendor owner took "stall" to an epic level. He built a cottage complete with two sets of doors to keep it toasty warm inside. There was even a section of the table where anyone could roll out some dough and cut out cookies! It smelled AMAZING.
Just one example of things for sale. Many of the wares take a lot of skill and time. The Striezelmarkt is not to be compared to a flea market or carnival. All the wooden scenes are hand carved, burned, and/or painted. 
And of course, my favorite, gluhwein! They even come served in a mug that has the founding date and "Dresdner Striezelmarkt" on it - the official cup!
HuiMan, Kerstin and I
At least HuiMan was ready for the photo! Enjoying our wine.

Enjoy some pictures!
mmmm...rostbratwurst. By far the best street food I've had!
All the mugs waiting to be filled with gluhwein
During the market HuiMan stopped to try and pronounce this word...in German they (almost) literally put words together to make the one they need. It's a tasty fried, very light potato pancake but they serve it with sugar on top. It sound a bit odd but was actually very tasty. 
Overlooking the courtyard at the Zwinger. It was cold up on the terrace but provided a great view of Dresden's skyline and the Zwinger.
There were lots of horse carriages about! These two were so sweet and kept cuddling their noses together. 

1 comment:

  1. Caroline, you can't fool me. You were clearly communicating telepathically with those two horses!

    ReplyDelete