Roman, Georgian, and Austen-tacious Bath

Many cities in Britain can claim Roman ruins and history. More cities are home to the popular and regal Georgian style (itself following Palladian and Classical styles). A few cities can even claim to have once been home to Jane Austen; arguably the best and dearly loved English novelist (Austen over Dickens. I am prepared to defend this position).

Yet all of the above can be claimed by one beautiful city in particular: Bath. I came to Bath at the end of the summer in 2015 to visit with some of my most gracious and entertaining friends. I did have to say good-bye to my faithful Ford Fusion rental car but, being the historically Roman city it is, Bath is best explored by foot. Time to slip on those Birkenstocks!

Before digressing into the city itself I cannot stress the importance of having such a lovely, temporary home. While I won't go into much detail, suffice to say that this villa has the ability to calm any stressed soul with its large and private garden, homey and comforting Aga stove (not sure what that is? Check this out AGA), and company willing to pour you one more glass and serve one more bite of food! While I am an avid hostel goer and prefer to be out rather than inside, this setting was an ideal "break" before setting into the last, hectic month of dissertation writing.

French champagne with a side of ranch Doritos. Could there be a better matched pair of hosts and snacks?

Off we go - don't forget comfy shoes, some water, and open eyes to sights that may be familiar from favorite films (or even history lessons). Here are the places I visited and the "must-see" places in Bath:

- Roman Baths

- The Assembly Rooms

- Sally Lunn's house AND bakery

- Royal Crescent

- Bath Abbey 

- Walk around High Street and listen to whichever local musician is there

While these are in no particular order, I'd have to admit that if you visit Bath and fail to see its namesake from the Roman era I don't know what you're thinking! Overlooking the green water into the halls and lounging areas of people long past is therapeutic on its own. These baths are the reason the city is a World Heritage city. The structure dates back to 70 BCE and it is such a humbling and magnificent site. 

 I don't have photos of all the places I've visited because sometimes taking photos can get in the way of experiencing the place and its vibe. The Assembly rooms, for instance, were so vast and open that even if I had wanted to capture it my phone would have done them terrible justice! It was another experience, though, of stepping back into a bygone era. The rooms were used in Georgian times (think Jane Austen novels!) for all social sorts of social gatherings. In fact, while we were there a wedding was being setup for the next day. Bright, open, ornate, and inspiring all the rooms had their own feel to them complete with floors that showcase the click of a heel and chandeliers to match the jewels worn by Georgian ladies.  

.... I am lost in an Austen daydream. Someone pinch me, I do believe I've spotted Mr. Darcey.

I've had some tea and sadly, that wasn't Mr. Darcey. That'a alright, though, because while meandering down streets and browsing in shops I cam across the stunning bridge in the photo above. This is Pulteney Bridge and at first I did not see river Avon which runs under it or the pristine Palladian architecture; that is because on both sides of the bridge you can find shops to distract even a classical architecture lover such as myself!  The pattern the river Avon takes on makes it even more attractive, but you may recognize this bridge if you are a fan of "Les Miserables". Go back and re-watch the 2012 version of the film to the end when the character Javert takes his life .... off Pulteney Bridge (the Avon makes a great stand-in for the Seine).

 I mentioned keeping your eyes peeled for film locations and this beautiful row of Georgian architecture, the Royal Crescent, certainly has had its fair share of the limelight. "Persuasion", the Jane Austen adaptation had scenes here as well as a TV series I enjoyed while living in Portsmouth called "Our Girl" on the BBC.

While I jaunted about on foot through the high street shops and homely lanes, my hosts took turns showing me nearby sites. Unsurprisingly we ventured to magnificent places of architecture (both hosts claiming the profession) and the old and new were all stunning to behold. Like all proper British cities, Bath boasts a Gothic church; this one is an Abbey because it was previously a monastery. The Abbey went through a series of faiths including a Benedictine (Anglo-Saxon) Monastery, a Norman Cathedral, and the Church of England (Anglican).  While I am not a religious person, visiting Abbeys, Cathedrals, and even ruins of such grand buildings are among my favorite pastime while travelling!

Not one to discount newer feats of architecture and engineering, we also spent part of a day driving to Bristol to walk across the Clifton Suspension Bridge. This bridge is certainly more modern than any Abbeys in the area but it is not "new". This bridge was built in 1863 but remains pivotal part of the economy in Bristol. It spans the River Avon, just as the Pulteney Bridge in Bath. It may seem a silly thing to explore but it is highly recommended. There are tours offered, the history is deeply rooted in the local area, and it is an excellent way to break up the usual sights!

If I were to settle in England, Somerset (which is the regional home of Bath) is wonderfully situated between Wiltshire (boasting Chippenham and Lacock), and Bristol county (self-explanatory) which, of course, connects to Wales via bridge. All three counties are bursting with rich history, offer lively High Streets and rolling green vistas while being well connected to both Wales and London. I was lucky enough to join one of my hosts off towards Chippenham to see Lacock Abbey. I knew nothing of this historic place until we arrived but was given one of the top gifts upon arrival: a membership to the National Trust. I told you these friends are the best. He knew it'd be best to leave me be in the surrounding history and I was free to explore for a few hours' time.

 This Abbey-cum-private home boasts another amazing piece of history and innovation which has made it possible for me to share these photos with you. Once home to the Talbots, the most notable person to live there was William Henry Fox Talbot who was the pioneer of photography in England. The tower above features many of his original photos and equipment. The first negative was created here by William Talbot in 1835.

 Keep an eye out for film locations! Wiltshire is a popular destination for directors. Perhaps the cloisters pictured above look familiar to Harry Potter fans? Many scenes were filmed here including classrooms, interior corridors, and villages. For example, the village outside of Lacock Abbey is entirely historic. What I mean is, there are no obvious modern markers (beyond people parking their cars and the road) from the outside. Many period pieces are filmed here but also snippets of Godric's Hollow! Worth a visit but please, please keep in mind that while the National Trust owns much of the area, actual people do live there. Truly.

 The history and modern things that happen all around Bath, Bristol, and Lacock in Wiltshire are truly wonderful but I find the best is simply to walk, look, and enjoy the landscape and beauty of the place. You can absolutely feel the history everywhere you are.

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After all that walking and taking-in of history, let's head back to Bath and get to the truly important things: food. You absolutely have to stop by Sally Lunn House. There is a rivalry between the "Sally Lunn Bun" and the "Bath Bun". I have to admit that I only stopped in to try a Sally Lunn Bun (similar to the French brioche). There is a small eatery in the Sally Lunn house with a museum (free entry with a munch!) and there is lot of mystery and fun surrounding the origins on Sally Lunn herself as well as the tasty, leavened treat. The Bath bun has dried fruit and sugar crystals which I'll have to try when I go back for another visit.

After you munch your buns and sip your tea, stroll about the streets and listen to the many street musicians, visit the Jane Austen center! As mentioned at the beginning, I adore Austen's works and there is no better way to immerse yourself into literature then to see it all. Once again, though, I have to admit I wasn't able to squeeze this attraction in. That means I already have a list of things to do when I visit again!- Jane Austen Center- Walk around Prior Park- Try a Bath Bun (and another Sally Lunn for comparison)- Walk the Bath Skyline walk- Stroll around the Circus. The Circus is not to be confused with the Royal Crescent but they are connected by Brock street. Really it is silly that I didn't walk that way while I was there!

 As usual, just some extra photos of the area for you to enjoy. I cannot wait to return to the Somerset area and complete my current "places to see" list. I love to pack in as many places and experiences are I can while travelling but you should always leave some things out to enjoy on a return trip and to fully enjoy those things you do manage to fit in. See you next time, Bath.

That Left Hand Shifting, Right hand drive machine

Unfortunately hiding out in a Scottish castle and reading in the Scottish library were not to last. For the last month of my tenure at the University of Portsmouth I decided that being near my dissertation advisor was a good plan - back south I go! To simply take the train or overnight coach back down to London (which I did on the way up - pretty neat!) I decided to make this a vacation in true Caroline style.

Rental car - Check.
Stop in Bath to visit family - Check.
Armed with English Heritage membership - Check.
Jamming out to music - Check.

My chariot for the trip - Ford Fusion. Surprisingly fun to drive, diesel sport engine!

I made sure to have a stop in Scotland before leaving that favorite country-away-from-home for the year but didn't want to delay my trip - I already knew I'd attempted to fit in more than normal for 7 days of travel!

LINLITHGOW PALACE

My first stop was not very far from Edinburgh airport and was once (still is, really) a palace home that has its place in history cemented by being the birth place of Mary Queen of Scots and was a true Stewart legacy and home. Actually, compared to Stirling and Edinburgh - the closest two castles  Linlithgow was truly a pleasure palace with no real defensive walls or towers. Clearly this was built and occupied in a time when the Stewart's were safely in power and enjoyed the benefits of their royal surety! This makes Linlithgow one of the most beautiful palaces - even in ruins - compared to the simpler and more common defensive castles!!

 A central courtyard greets visitors with visible marks and graffiti from the monarchs that lived there and a stunning fountain - they even turn it on during summer!

Seen from above. The palace looks to have a simple layout but wandering around the ruins I can say that it is more complicated than in looks! Rooms hidden behind others, fireplaces large and tall enough to stand and dance in (which I really want) and half-levels - this palace and its quaint town should be at least a day trip!

As a self-declared Jacobite (for the pride of it all, heck with religion) seeing this Stewart palace was phenomenal. I didn't plan to visit because of its history but because of it's location but I am so happy I did! Linlithgow also has a neat place in history as having been the home of Mary Tudor, sister to Henry VIII (for rather a short while), before tensions between the Rose and Thistle. Her son was James V and it was her great-grandson, James VI, who later became King after Elizabeth I and united the English and Scottish crowns which would lead into more tumult lasting well into the late 1700's!!!  Ahhhh history.

THE NORTH

 If I had to choose a place to live in the UK, the north of England would win out. Or southern Scotland. While I say Scotland is my favorite country (and it is outside of home) I would never get sick of these vistas, the open space, history, or people I encountered in Northumberland. Plus it's not far from the Peaks!!

On my way from Scotland I chose the coastal A1 - often choosing the smaller roads when the presented themselves - and on down to Alnwick. There were even stops to be had along the way! The UK is excellently signed which makes navigation easy, sure, but also means that a drive from A to B may result in stops at C, D, E, and F! I was really good, actually, only making one stop but that may have been because it was getting late and I needed to find my lodging for the night! Doon Hill is in the lowlands and was a farming village nearly 6,000 years ago! Ruins and artifacts remain in their stunning resting place with views to the sea and inland to the south (England). Nice romp around some single lane, narrow roads with grass so tall many American trucks would be hidden! 

Finally, though I was unable to visit Alnwick castle the same day as hoped, I made it to a small village where I'd be sleeping for the evening, a small place called Rothbury. It was a lovely and quintessentially English tavern and inn where I had one of the best burgers EVER and a full breakfast spread the next morning. I was lucky, too, while off to the Co-Op to purchase food for the week (have to get by on the skint) I encountered bagpipers and a C5, racing red, and got caught taking a photo (awkward). Can you imagine driving a left-hand drive vehicle on the left side of the road - a very wide and low one at that?! Ugh all the scratches he must have on her from the brush and roads!!!! 

She has her own special plate! 

Right, back to the important stuff - CASTLES. The next morning I went to Alnwick (said Annick) Castle which is still lived in off-season by the Dukes of Northumberland and family. It was also a filming location in Harry Potter and the Sorcerers Stone (you know, that flying lesson when Neville falls and Harry gets rewarded for breaking all the firstie rules?), they had hawks, "flying" lessons, and archery. I did some archery after a lovely tour, of course. It was awesome and I was fab at right and left handed - but better, of course, with my left. 

 Grounds designed by Capability Brown - Alnwick was the first I heard this name but this landscaper followed me throughout England! The grounds here had "capability".

Alnwick is still lived in and it was built in the 11th Century - after the Norman Conquest! This makes it not only one of the oldest castles in England still standing true but also the largest - it has been added to multiple times. After Windsor Castle it is the second largest castle still lived in!

Alnwick was amazing and I wish I could have stayed for a couple days. SO many tours to take, things and workshops to see and do (and archery for days). Truly is a family place with its gardens, land, and activities!

After Alnwick I drove all the way down to Birmingham to stay for 3 nights - from there I planned on branching out around the midlands and north. The best thing about Birmingham besides the price (compared to Portsmouth and London, anyhow) was the library. As a non-city person, Birmingham had little to offer beyond a pillow ... but the library is pretty damn cool. Multiple levels with some half-levels, books only reachable by ladder! If only I had remembered to grab my charger when I took the taxi into the city!!!! As it was I only got about an hour of work in then took to finding owls in the city ... 

 
 The building on the lower left behind the owl is the library.
 The owls were apart of the "Big Hoot" an artist initiative to raise funds for a rare disease center for children - they were everywhere! I have photos of 15 and never strayed far from the library!

Outside of Birmingham, though, my itinerary included stops along Hadrian's Wall, Bolsover Castle, the Peaks, and Peveril Castle.

HADRIANS WALL
Of the utmost importance to a classicist like myself, Hadrian's wall still boasts tons of sites and hikes! I finally signed up for an English Heritage membership at one of the sites and greatly enjoyed romping about. One day I'll have to return simply to hike and camp along the wall.

The wall stretches east to west from Newcastle Upon Tyne to Mayport in the west and was erected in c. 120 BCE and was a barrier between Roman lands and the barbarians in the North (those pesky Scots who weren't Scots yet, at the time). This means that there are still stretches of an impressive stone wall and ruins of forts and camps along this northern region of England. So much to see! I settled with only stopping at Chester's Roman fort and museum and Housetead's fort. Housetead's was the best because there was a portion of the wall you could walk on!!! Dreams do come true. Sometimes.

 Never get tired of seeing all this!

I would have kept walking and walking from here but sadly the day was wearing on into sunset. So, as I have said, one day, there will be a trip back whose sole purpose will be hiking about the UK!

BOLSOVER CASTLE

Another place I went to visit was Bolsover castle, home to the Cavendish family for quite some time. Granted, this land and estate was in play long before Charles Cavendish made it his residence, but he is the most fascinating owner (along with his rather controversial family) because of all the horse stuff!! That's right, there was an indoor ring with seating and a loft seating as well as indoor stables larger than many country homes! And they were indoor!

All about the equines! Sadly I missed out on the demonstrations sometimes held here but am happy enough with having seen the castle and written down the books that English Heritage had on the castle and their horses!

I visited Bolsover twice, on this first road trip and later (after the completion on the dissertation) on my second road trip. Both times I explored the riding wing of the property for a long time while bustling through the rest; so I cannot do the main castle much justice but it was clearly a place of pleasure and comfort rather defense or asylum. 

The "little" castle - this was built as the main living quarters for the Cavendish family. 

Sadly the Cavendish family only held Bolsover for less than 200 years - starting in 1600 and ending around the 1770's. Connected to the formidable Bess of Hardwick (Charles, the first Cavendish to have Bolsover was her son), Bolsover and its occupants saw tumultuous years between royal successions and political ploys.

PEVERIL CASTLE 

Also located in the vague "midlands" of England, Peveril castle is entirely a ruin located atop a steep and breath-taking (literally) hill. I am quite sure I found it by accident but even if only for the drive up to Castleton (in Derbyshire) it is beyond worth the visit. The castle, like many in England, was founded and built sometime after the Norman conquest. Also like most, it passed through the stewardship of many people due to politics being so ridiculous. So....not a whole lot has changed!

  These photos do little to no justice to the breathtaking scenery surrounding Peveril castle. High, green, and majestic hills dotted with crags and sheep - this is a true happy place. 

Sadly Peveril castle has been a ruin and unimportant in history for a very long time - it began falling into disuse and repair back in the 1400's! Despite all that, though, the lovely village of Castleton (and its caverns) remain a popular destination in the Peak District. 

After driving about the north and the midlands I made my way down to Bath, where I returned my faithful (of one week) Ford and visited the Tarts! That entry, though, will be on it's own as I hate to prattle on for too long. Suffice to say that driving about England and Scotland was awesome and I may have considered keeping the car and dashing my hopes for receiving an MA before 30 years old (but now, at least, that's one thing I can cross of my pre-30 bucket list). While exploring new places has merits I must say that there is so much to see in the UK that I will likely return here before anything else!!!

Happy driving and keep to the left!

A Summer in Chilly, Wet Scotland.

Castles, kilts, bagpipes, and lots of outdoor wandering make for a lovely time. Forget the research!

I needed a change of scenery amidst the tourism of Portsmouth and managed to find an absolute jewel in the south west of Scotland outside of Aberfoyle called Duchray Castle; a lovely and small 16th century castle nestled in the wild and green Queen Elizabeth Forest Park.

I found Duchray Castle and her owners via my favorite work-away organization, HelpX. Recently converted into a luxury B&B, Duchray boasts four well appointed rooms with a great hall or vault, lounge, and a fabulous trained chef and event manager for her owner. During the summer the castle hosts weddings and lays off the daily grind of hiking B&B guests - I stayed from July 15 to August 21st to help with the weddings and it was lovely - despite the rainy days and chill in the air!

My hosts, Frances and Oliver Bigwood were fantastic. Immediately I settled in, which admittedly rarely poses a challenge for me, and fell in love with the combination of luxury, simplicity, old and new of Duchray. While part of the castle you see above is original and from the 16th century, much was added in the Victorian era. Mostly, though, the magic of the B&B came from Frances and Oliver. While it would be easy to ramble on about Frances' impeccable design taste and Oliver's dedication to structure and grounds keeping, I'll allow you all to read about it for yourself and from the horses' mouth. Read all about it HERE ... and maybe whet your appetite for a Scottish adventure starting at Duchray.

The vault in Duchray has an incredible mantel - the wax drips down and creates such a romantic effect perfect for weddings, and, of course, cozy and inviting in general.

Granted, I was still in the middle of my masters dissertation. Anyone who has spent a modicum of time around me, though, knows that a place such as Portsmouth (while lovely) is not going to keep me long against the rest of the UK and my favorite country (outside of Greece), Scotland. No worries, all my school work came with me and for those who may be interested themselves, the National Library of Scotland is fabulous. I may just go back and hang out there for a while. Frances' schedule at Duchray was ideal as it gave me most days in the week off to work but also with days of B&B work which provided relief from the tedium of dissertation work.

My time in Scotland consisted of lots of relaxed walks, tons of midge bites (will not miss those little buggers), treks into the village of Aberfoyle simply to use my phone, weddings, trips to Edinburgh to use the NLS and see the Military Tattoo.

I may not have moved about Scotland as much as I would have liked but neither did I work as often as I should have. Rather, my days were half-full of bobbing about the woods and reading more spy fiction novels for my dissertation than I ever thought I would - it'll be a while before I watch a Bond film. At the very least I had a lovely setting for it - although moving from the Portsmouth sun and into the wettest place in Scotland was not ideal it did dispel my freckles to their winter-time dusting. Find the positive.

With all this inviting green it would be hard to imagine NOT wandering off a little each day.

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I do need to clarify before anyone gets ideas about me having too much fun instead of working - I did not stay in the castle proper. I did not get to parade about being a princess and I didn't even chuck a stuffed cow from battlements. Instead there was a small cottage at the beginning of the Duchray estate that I shared with another girl (also to clairify, this arrangement in no way lessened the greatness of Scotland or Duchray but...for your castle envy). It was lovely because it was private and I got my very own bat.

I am honest enough to admit that he scared the crap out of me and I yelped and jumped quite violently when he flew at my face. Truthfully he may have been flying above my head...but hey.

Edinburgh is a fantastic city. Small, historic, artsy, full of good food, shopping, and hikes. While most of my time there was spent in the National Library, I spared some time for other stuff too. If ever you are in the area, Edinburgh is an absolute must-see. The best part for me was finally being able to go back after 11 years! My favorite thing in Edinburgh this time around was the Military Tattoo that hopefully, one day, I'll get to experience again. As always, having to leave Scotland is saddening and I am already looking forward to the next trip!

Victoria Street terrace

This has been added simply to compare the cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow - only about 40 minutes apart and so very different. This is a mounted statue of the Duke of Wellington and he has a traffic cone just behind his horse. In Glasgow, though, Wellington wears his traffic cone on his head. Cheeky.

Representing the People's Liberation Army, China has a dragon showcased in the castle facade with steam and fog billowing from the entry way.

Lots of men (and women, but let's focus on what's important) in kilts with bagpipes. There are fewer things that captivate me so. To be clear, I love the bagpipes and the kilts - not just the kilts.

Representing the US, the USAF Honor Guard Drill team. There were far less of them than any other represented group but the place was silent as they flipped those guns around - pretty neat and zero fumbles! (go USA!)

Outside of the bustle of Edinburgh and the bust wedding weekends, Scotland was and remains a superstitious and spiritual place. When in Aberfoyle I saw a fairy walk so I checked it out.